In the winter of 1909 in the Imperial Harbor snow came early, which was worried about the Orochi. It carried a hard road and hindering the movement of hunters, especially on the road from the camp to the places sobolevaniya. River promised to freeze unstable: on ice under the snow had thawed patches form. In deep snow will soon be buried traps sobolevanie rams have to stop early, and drive on the track, which was considered difficult and little hunting dobychlivoy. The misery of course fish in that year was a bad one. All Orochi yukola procured so little that by counting it were not enough to feed the people until the spring, not to mention the dogs. Many anticipate the hunger strike and there was talk of the old and feeble jamming dogs. Lack yukola tied people to place and forced them to abandon sobolevaniya. Many Orochi decided sometime before spring break by the sea, hoping to catch the occasional small fish in the shallow water zone.
All this, taken together, and puts me in a difficult position. Orochi, always ready to help me, were very concerned about the issue of who and how will accompany me on Khungari. Old Anton Sagdy and Fedor Butungari advised me to give up the winter journey, offered me to stay with them until the spring and the first boat to leave Vladivostok.
This did not suit me at all. Execution path through the Sikhote-Alin on Khungari part of the plan of my work, besides my money was running out, and wintering on Tumnin delayed the expedition for at least another six months.
When I announced the Orochi, a route along the rivers and Acura Khungari must do at all costs, they decided to discuss the matter at a general gathering of the day in the evening in the house of Anton Sagdy. I understood the reason for their concern and decided not to insist that they followed me for the watershed, as I told them in the morning, and just asked them to tell me in detail how to get to the Sikhote-Alin. My companions on this route volunteered to be the arrow Ilya and Pavel Rozhkov Nozdrin.
Orochi meeting did not last long. Fedor Butungari told me that they decided not to let me alone, because the origins of Acura easily get lost. He also said that one Oroch with sleds and four dogs leads me up to the watershed and will indicate the water that flows in Akure. Oroch then come back, and then I'll go myself, following a mountain stream, until we leave for Khungari. However, Fedor Butungari urged me to facilitate sled and take as little dogs. It was a very sensible advice.
Once again, I looked at their property, some of it left in the village with a date and took only thing without which nothing was impossible to avoid. We were dressed in coats, warm underwear and woolen trousers. On their heads were fur hats with headphones on hand - knitted gloves and legs woolen puttees and boots made of fish skin, counting one pair for seven days. Cloth tent for his awkwardness, we left in the Imperial Harbor, but instead it took two canvas cloth, which can be set to cover the pan and put on the pole, so a small tent. Stove with pipes, I gave the Orochi in the village date. Our tent was so small that barely housed three of us. Inside it we had to light the fire, and placed themselves in the spruce forest around it. Each had two pairs of skis, one on his feet, and the other - spare - in the sledge. We have brought with them a small crosscut saw, two axes, pot, kettle, cups, guns, ammunition. In my sled was all scientific equipment and the most precious of my belongings - diaries. For sleeping each had a goat skin, warm stockings kabarozhey skins and fur inside blankets and a pillow - a simple linen bag with spare clothes. I was hoping to make the entire trip in three weeks, and in accordance with this took the food to the people and dog food. Even if we were willing both to take more, it would be impossible. That, in fact, we could take with us? Our convoy consisted of three sleds - one for each person. Sledges we had to drag ourselves and each intended to help two dogs.
All as if it had been provided, unknown to us there were only two questions: what is the depth of snow on Khungari and soon will on the other side we find the people and Nartova trodden road. It took two days for the collection of sled dogs and feed them. Yukola we collected it from every house. Finally, everything was packed and stacked. I arranged with the Orochi, that when frozen river Tumnin in the squad will be the conductor Orochi with his sled, and we remove the anchor.
We were out of date October 3 at nine o'clock. The day was frosty, quiet. Even in the air there was no movement. The whole sky was covered with dark gray-blue clouds that lay parallel strips and seemed completely immobile. Occasionally air flashed rare snowflakes. After snowfall all things on earth were covered with lush hoods. From pipes on small Oroch houses, buried in the snow, slender streams rose vertically haze. Date between the villages and the Hutu-date road was already trodden, and so we are pretty well advanced. Dog dragged diligently. The poor animals! They thought that they would work only one day, in the village of Oroch harnessed in other sled dogs, and did not know what a sad fate awaited them in the future.
In the Hutu-date we arrived at dusk and very very tired. If we were going to a deserted area, it has long stood to bivouac, but now we would certainly come to the village of Hutu-date. I stayed in the house Orochi Fedor Butungari, gave me so much service. We spent the whole evening with him in friendly conversation. He gave me good advice, and I tried to remember all the little things and made notes in a notebook. The next morning we continued our journey. On this day, the weather was the same gloomy as the day before. The sky was still gloomy. The clouds slowly crept to the south-west. In this movement, they had some stubborn persistence, and no one knew why they were there and they wanted to fill their heavy soulless masses. Is it because the road is a little zanastilas, or because we had a good rest and began to get involved in the work, but it was evident that we were more easily and quickly.
In the village of Akure-date we arrived before dark. Almost all of the Orochi were home. Lack of dog food tied them to the site. The natives hunted furs next to the village around the radius, determined by the amount of cargo that each of them could carry on his person.
In Akure-date we have found one Orochi, which has more than 80 years, and to which all the villagers were treated with great respect. He was gray, like Harrier, but kept the eyes and ears. I began to ask him about my upcoming journey. He called the two hunters and told them to draw a plan. Orochi brought bark flap and using knives have her draw a card pool Acura and all the passes through the watershed. Damn they are slow, often consulted with the old man and put their icons circles, crosses and corners, with some fish bones Orochi measured distance and saw the number of days of travel. I was impressed by their ability to use the size and memory, with which they are dealt with in countless small streams and rivers that make up the upper Acura Hutu and Khungari. This bark plan has served me in good stead later. I always used it as long until I found other people on the other side of the Sikhote-Alin.
Only here, I learned that all people usually go with Tumnin on Khungari River Muli. This is the most easy and direct way, the river is Acura's nobody goes, because it coincides with the upper Khungari origins. Although this was a roundabout way, and it is largely lengthens my way, but I still chose it as a new and original route, while on a road Muli, beaten by many travelers and is well described by DL Ivanov.
October 18th, we said goodbye to the village Akure-date. At the confluence of the river Tumnin in his Acura is divided into two large and several small bags. When you go to one of them and you can not see the others, it seems as if Acura small river, but then begin to merge channels, increase in size, and finally disappear. Then only it turns out the true width of the river.
The weather is still standing Morochno. The clouds continued to move in the same direction, they fall below, and seemed, giving air to the ground, why was close and felt some oppression, misery. Where the river forms a huge loop Akure, skirting on three sides Ridge Sagdy-Yo, formed cheeks. Here we spent the night. Our tent was so small that the four of us in it not instead be, if our guide Oroch had thought to bring along extra sheets. At night we all slept badly, was somehow stuffy and warm.
The other day, when I came out of the tent, the first thing I noticed was a thick fog. He lay motionless on the ground. Through it, you can hardly be considered the opposite bank of the river. When the sun came up and pulled down the valley breeze, mist swayed. Through a gap in it could be seen across the river hills covered with burning, followed by bluish high mountains, too devoid of vegetation. It seems that the weather is loose. It made a slight recovery in our little party, but soon the sun disappeared and the sky clouded over again. Wasting no time, we quickly laid his property sled and set off.
Since Orochi had four dogs and sled it was easier to ours, then I sent it to pave the way forward, and behind him we were moving with their baggage.
Five days later we arrived at the origins of Acura, and a little short of the watershed, rose bivouac. Shortly before dusk these days Gloomy weather outbreak of heavy snowfall, which continued through the night and all the next day. Snow swirled in the air and fell with a characteristic rustling. The surface of the earth will soon become covered with a white cloth and seemed silent. On the rocks, wind-fallen trees and branches throughout the oil appeared snow pillows. I had to make astronomical observations here and so I decided to wait until the storm blows over. Tediously boring and time dragged on. Our guide hurried home, where his wife and two small children with limited food stocks.
Finally, on the third day, the sky was cleared, and although rare, still going fine snow, but still through the thin veil of layered clouds occasionally one or two minutes, the sun peeps. On it you can see with the naked eye. I immediately established a mercury horizon, took altitude during its peak and determine the true noon. While I made observations, my companions beat a path to the pass and returned to camp before dark. After dinner, all engaged in putting in order skis. They had to scrape knives, moisten with hot water and dry them bend over the fire.
Nine o'clock we went to the bonfire. I thought long and fast asleep. But that's a dream I heard a voice, and rose from his bed. I saw all of my companions and Orochi, quickly gathering his things. Assuming that the time to get up, I also got ready and reached for his shoes.
- Not yet, - said Nozdrin - until the light is far away.
I looked at the clock and saw that there were only three and a half hours in the morning. Then I asked him why they all stood up so early. That question Nozdrin told me that for some reason our guide woke them and told quickly laid sledges. Finally, I found out what had happened.
Oroch awake at night on some sounds. After listening to him, he recognized the cries finches. This made him very worried. Day night cries of birds portend no good. Soon the birds settled down, and our guide was about to get into bed again, but at this time and became alarmed crows caw. They are so scared Orochi that he woke Rozhkov and Nozdrina and asked them to wake me as soon as possible.
I began to question the Orochi, what is it, and tried to calm him, but he remained steadfast. Of its individual phrases, I realized that the birds sleep very sensitively, always hear the approach of the devil and raise a cry. Then, regardless of the weather, we must hurry to leave this place. If you stay in the bivouac, then all would be killed. There were many cases where entire families perished from various epidemic diseases or going missing in the forest, freezing the house or drowned in the water. Dream has passed, we warmed up, I got dressed and left the tent. Middle of the night like a dark shroud clung to the ground, all around was dead silence. Stiff air so clear and still, which could hear the rustle of the most insignificant. I began to strain your eyes, but nothing could be considered even close to the tent. Suddenly, to my ears heard a strange noise - it snow showered from the branches to the ground, and then I heard the flapping of the wings more often and loud croak.
At this time of the tent came Orochi. He quickly became a harness and put the sled dogs. When all was ready, he said he would wait for us at the pass, then vpryagsya a sledge, shook her tongue left and right and set out.
I walked into the tent. Dry birch firewood burned brightly. Arrows had already warm tea. Consultation, we have decided to withdraw from a camp just as soon be dawn and the next camp to get up early.
As soon as the first glimmers of dawn, we withdrew from the camp and went to the Sikhote-Alin. The forest was still quiet. The slightest breeze. Long strands of beard lichen hung motionless. Started the day dawn.
Much to our amazement at the pass was no Orochi. He went down to the other side of the ridge - it is clearly said he left traces. Indeed, soon after the watershed we saw the smoke and fire near our guide. He told us that the river, which we now lead the water is called Tukey and that it falls into Khungari. He then said that I would not go and return to Tumnin.
- My So-go - he pointed with his hand in the north-west.
At first I did not understand it, but then realized that he did not want to go the old-trodden road, and prefers to lead the way of virgin land, just to get around a dangerous place of the Parties. Giving himself to deal with wild fears, we have said goodbye to him and went on. Small key by which we are now going down, had a line to the south. I was confused, but basically we could not change anything and had to follow the water, which (we know this probably) should have led us to the river Khungari. The question was just in time.
Weather spoiled us long, and soon the sky was overcast haze. Now we were moving slowly. On the western slopes of the Sikhote-Alin mountain snow were much deeper than in the basin Tumnin. Dogs drown in them, which greatly impeded our movements. In the evening we went out for some river, its width was not more than 6-8 meters. If this Khungari, then we hit the most with its upper and therefore our way to the Amur to be a long and long.
Confidence, reliance on good weather and hope that we will soon find, if not the people themselves, that they have trodden the road, encouraged and comforted us. We had enough food. In any case, we have the pass on the right track, and the deep snow ... We reacted to it in philosophical: "not all the pros, even among them, and one will be negative."
However, the greater the depth of snow on the first day much tired of people and dogs. Sledges had to drag mostly to ourselves. The dogs were buried in the snow, jumped and little help. They knew how to dissemble: belt, to which they were pripryazheny was only slightly stretched, what's easy to make, touching his hand. Cunning animals looked, and only noticed that they want to test, pretending to try.
The farther down the river, the snow was deeper, the more we are tired and the slower we move forward. We had to think of something. Then I decided to leave tomorrow sleds in the bivouac and the three of them go to investigate. I primarily hoped to rest yourself, my companions and dogs. I was going to beat a path to ski, so it can be provided in the next day.
Once in this day trip was long, and we got quite a camp at dusk. We stayed on the right side of the river at the foot of a young spruce high cliff. I found a convenient place: on the one hand to protect us from the wind beach, on the other - the forest, with a third - the young fir trees.
The next day we went to the road tread lightly. Stepping back a bit, I looked around and saw there is only a place for a camp was not chosen very well. Top of the cliff loomed huge block of snow, which at any moment might break and bury our tent with people. I decided to move it back to another place.
I must say that on loose snow most habitual walker can go without rest about 20 minutes. Since we were three, we divide the work in the following way: every twenty minutes a man walking in front, crossing the tail, and in his place the next, back at that time rested. Then replaced the second in line to the third, third again first.