We sailed on such a narrow duct that boat they could not turn back. They cross each other and made the long loop. Soon I lost my bearings, so I have not helped and the compass.
Finally ducts over, and we went to the river one day side, the south side. It was over so quickly that the promotion of rowing there was no question. Golds took up poles. This method of travel - hard work. I have to work standing up. This requires strength, stamina and skill. The situation is very unstable boat: she kept swinging, be careful to maintain a balance and look forward. With unaccustomed a beginner dizzy, and any wrong move can cause a disaster. Golds so asked us to sit quietly and not disturb their work. It is hard to say which is the width Anyui, because it is divided into ducts extending to the side, sometimes for ten kilometers. Where several branches are merged together, the width of the river was from two hundred to three hundred meters and flow speed of about six miles an hour. Like all mountain rivers, the channel is now at one bank, then another, and so that the flats are located on either side of the river in a checkerboard pattern.
Tree and shrub vegetation of the lower Anyuya can claim diversity. On both sides of the river flood-plain meadows spread out with scattered trees and tall shrubs along the duct. NA Desulavi noted in his diary Amur linden with hollow gnarled trunk with gnarled branches and flowers, from a distance rather strong flavor, then - cork bark with gray wrinkled, velvety to the touch. It has a bright yellow sapwood and foliage, in appearance like a willow. Here and there could be seen Amur lilac bushes growing, but such a value that each branch coming out of the ground, could be called a tree. Lilac was dark with whitish spots smooth bark and highly fragrant white flower clusters. Near the lilacs in the sun rose viburnum of the form a spreading shrub with large petiolate leaves and flowers of two sorts: plodonesuschie bowls in the middle and at the edges snezhnobelye fruitless. There was also a lot of wild vines clinging to other plants. Sometimes he grew so that by hiding them completely leaves of the tree, which he had chosen as a support.
Our Golds always maneuvered from one bank to another, choosing where it was not as deep and the current is weaker. When the boat at the turn fell into the fast-paced stream of water, where the poles did not reach the bottom, they were taken to the oars and rowed with all his might. During the drifting boat back to the other shore. Then Golds on poles again selected against the water to the next turn, and again crossed the river. From time to time they molested shallows to relax and have a smoke tube. On this day, we were only five miles, and early settled bivouac near the river channels Syren kata.
From the forest all the time flew some lingering sounds like, to the cries of Corncrake, but more melodic. I asked Golds, if they know who their issues. They replied that it cries Mikey, that is a snake. Judging from the descriptions of them, it must be a runner. They spoke with such confidence, I decided to go in the direction of the sounds heard. A hundred steps I went to some small clearing. Sounds just swept away. However, the creature, which published them, it was very strong and had a good sense of hearing. It sank or lowered screams and apparently listened to my steps. It made me stop frequently and move with great caution. Finally I went to the most reeds and saw that at the bottom of a thick layer of earth lying last year's grass. Just places like big snakes. And I and the snake were on the alert, both listening. Mickey stopped completely, but I'm armed with patience and stood in one place, without making any movement. Suddenly very close, your right, I heard a rustle and saw some really great reptile. It crawled under the dry grass, and only sometimes parts of his body were shown to the outside. And once again, there was a little ahead of the same ringing sound, like a melodious wheezing. Then all was quiet. I stood for a long time, but no more cries again. I came back. Dusk at all. Night promised to be clear and quiet. The sky clouds floated rare, and it seemed as if the moon was moving toward them. On the part of the dry pond still raced the same melodic melancholy cries, and on the other side of it the second friendly chorus frog.
Until cooked dinner, I could lay off the route. When it got dark, Krylov, Zhang Bao and cant go fishing. Small nevodkom they caught one trout and one carp. Accompanied us Golds reported that trout in Anyue general is rare, but quite common carp in the lower reaches of the river. Near the mouth to keep quiet backwaters of large size pike and catfish. Anyuyu of salmon on the mass is only chum, pink salmon are absent.
When we returned to the fishing catch, it was dark. The bivouac burned a large fire. Fluttering bright light were illuminated trunks and trees. The day we were all tired and so went to bed early. Duty around our dog.
The next day all Golds lifted to his feet at the first sign of the approaching morning. They hurried us and said that they will be bad weather. Indeed, the sky ran large cumulus clouds with torn edges. We had to wait for rain.
In the lower reaches for thirty kilometers Anyuy flows from the southeast to the northwest, and then he makes a big loop and turns west, what is the direction and stores up to its confluence with the Amur. On this site in sequential order from the mouth up the river are the following channels and approximate points. On the right side of the river, the river Mulomu and far from her river Mynymu then duct Peregdyma Hohtoaso and terrain, and the left side - small ducts Far and Kute, then rolled and ducts Syren Yauka Suaren and terrain with an empty booth and duct Houlosu. In the place where Anyuy makes a turn to the east to the north-west, the area is called Bagan (in Russian "Balagan"). East of it is the mouth of the ducts Kahn.
Golds knew the river and, where possible, cut corners, using channels, sometimes, on the contrary, preferred to go bayou, even though it was longer than the new channel, but within it was calmer. The natives did not miss a single pebble shoals, which they called "sand", and they were due to the hut Dulyalya, the final destination of their voyage on Anyuyu.
Considered to be the lower reaches Anyuya moshkarinym place on the Amur. Indeed, these winged bloodsuckers there were so many that it was impossible to look resolutely and breathe. They climbed into the eyes, mouth, stuffed in his ears. Without safety nets on his face and without sleeves and gloves to work outdoors is absolutely impossible. Midge belongs to the Diptera. It looks like small flies, but with longer wings than the last. In addition, the cephalothorax she clearly separated from the abdomen, causing her to have some similarities with osoyu. Apparently, the midges eat them with the skin epidermis and drink the blood of projecting outwards, and this explains the strongest itching in the affected areas.
After about an hour we reached the hut swimming Dulyalya. It is no different from the other huts Goldsk Naikhin, except smaller and more intricate carving. When the boats moored to the shore, hut ran out of the door, two children five or six years. They were in an unbuttoned shirt, no pants and bare feet. It is difficult to say why their skin was a dark shade from sun, soot, dirt, or was it a natural pigmentation. When he learned that the boats are sitting Lotz, boys suddenly made the frightened faces and fled back. A minute later there was the master himself. He held out his hand and helped out on the beach. In fanze lived three men, two women and three children. Again began with tea and treats dry Jukola.
Golds said that the next day to wait for bad weather, because there are many midges and biting it hurts. They also noticed that the fish in the channels up to the surface of the water and gasping for air. Already in the afternoon sky was delayed cobwebs stratus clouds.
When it was dark, the sky was completely overcast Zavolochye. It began to rain, which did not stop for two days in a row. Seeing that the bad weather a protracted nature, I decided to go on, despite the bad weather. Hence Amur Golds turned back, and to replace them took me to escort inmates Dulyalya huts. They said that the water in the river can come and then sail boat will be quite impossible. These were convincing arguments.
After learning about our decision, Golds immediately began cobiratsya.
But there was a curious event. The owner huts, hitherto cheerful and talkative, suddenly angry. He produced boots, who yesterday wore only once, and on the bottom of the hole has been. He began to swear, then grabbed the shoes and threw it into a corner. Soon all cleared up. Boots come in different strengths. Usually they are worn in the summer a week or two, but those rushing in one day. Bad luck! Boots to understand people. If a person who puts them came to their liking, they will be worn for a long time, but if not - soon demolished. The owner was out of the hut itself. His wife gave him new boots and then with a serious look on his stick raised holed shoes, made it out of the hut and threw with abuse towards dogs.
Finally, everything was settled. As if the rain began to subside. Golds laid loads in the boat pointed in the passenger seat, pulled down the oars, poles and set off. But the weather has deceived us. After a short break, it began to rain again, and finally misery accident occurred. In one of the duct Golds came to fin and somehow inadvertently put the boat sideways against the current. Water once flowed across the board and in an instant the boat filled to the brim. Fortunately, there was shallow. We jumped out of the boat, at the hands dragged her to shore. By the accident of special misfortune has happened, but the whole burden of our wet, forcing us ahead of time to take the camp and dried his clothes on fire.
Ducts passing Yergali and Cauas, Golds moored to the shore. They began to recover the boat and distribute spare poles and oars so that they are always at hand. Golds were a bit worried. When we went on, one of the Golds, who was ahead of the boat, often got up and stared for a long time to come. I asked him what was wrong. In response, he made a sign to me that I was silent. I began to listen, and immediately caught my ear a noise. He became more clearly and definitely. At this time, Gold, who was standing in the bow of the boat, reached out his hand and said only one word, "Ioka". I also got up and saw a huge rip in the place where the two channels are merged together. Rip Ioka had the appearance of a large mound of water, up to five feet in diameter and about eight meters. Here we encounter two streams going to meet each other.
The vast amount of water taken by a two channels could not fit in the bed of the river. It heaves up a big bubble that moved all the time, and came first to one and then to another bank. Just boiled water and was in rapid rotation, throwing around a white foam.
At the top of the hill the water from time to time formed a huge crater. She has appeared at once, rapidly increased in size, producing a suction sound and then just as suddenly disappear. Golds moored to the shore and began to unload the boat. Part Golds began to carry loads, and the other went to inspect and correct clearing, arranged for Perevoloka. Felling of old and very worn in the land of convicts have pointed out that this Perevolok there a long time and we are not the first and last use them to bypass the dangerous rips side.
At Golds were two hunting dogs. We took their places in the boats, and four passengers had now run along the shore and often cross the ducts. The first meeting Goldsk huskies with our dogs wore hostile. They are unfriendly glances at each other, grinned, but then became friends and ran to catch up with the boat, which managed to escape is far ahead. Huskies ran ahead, and our dog - behind. The last time we saw them all on the left bank Anyuya and expect that they will come running after Perevoloka. But when we started to drag the boat around Rip, dogs appeared on the other side. Laika and our two dogs ran on, and one pointer sailed right through Anyuy. In vain did the Cossacks drove her away and threw stones.
She did not notice the danger and barely separated from the coast, as a strong jet of water caught her and carried her to suloyu. Poor animal fell into a whirlpool and drowned before our eyes.
On this day we were only eight miles and spent the night in the camp Kotofey Datani consisting of three yurts, which lived six men, five women and two children.
Before dusk I was about to walk along the beach with a gun, but the abundance of mosquitoes led me back to the hut. We hoped to rest and eat sleep, but were attacked by countless fleas, not for a moment gave a wink of sleep. When it was dawn, I got dressed and left the hut.
It was cold and damp. The gray sky was drizzling. In the dry duct (behind Goldsk home) I went yesterday without getting your feet wet, there was water. So, Anuy started going out of its sides. I went back and started to wake Golds.
Hour and a half we left the camp Kotofey Datani and again went to the poles against water. In these places Anyuy has latitude over with a slight declination to the north. On the left side there are two tracts, and above them flow Koldoni. Near the mouth of the last shelter another Goldsk fanzochka Syrah. I thought that we will go on, but enhances the bad weather has allowed only a walk to the last hut Goldsk Tahsale.
After an hour and a half after our arrival, when we sat on Kanakh, drinking tea, a woman entered the room and said that the water in the river comes so quickly, that can carry all boats. Golds immediately dragged them away to the coast. However, this was not enough. Late in the evening and at night twice again dragged the boat. Water filled all channels, all the old women of the river and threatened the very home.
The flooding led us to sit in one place for a week. Agonizingly long time dragged on. I've been doing ethnography and collected information about their neighbors and Gold udeheytsah. By the way, here I learned that in the upper reaches flows Anyuy some time along the western slope of the Sikhote-Alin Mountains, covering the origins of Horus, and the adoption of a flow Gobilli flowing towards him, turns west, dodging a little to the north, the south , and flows into the canal Dyren. Of Golds I also learned that their relatives live only in the lower reaches of the river, and udeheytsy - up to local Ulema, and the top half Anyuy completely uninhabited. Hereinafter the same Golds said that in order to reach the sea, we need time for at least thirty days.
Later, I learned that not only was the reason for the flood of our delay, but there were other circumstances. The fact is that the Golds are afraid Anyuya above huts Tahsale never go. They were aware that udeheytsy going down on boats down the river, and they decided to wait for them here in Tahsale to pass us, but by the drive home. They do not make a mistake in the calculations. Indeed, July 9, from top udeheytsy came in two boats.
The same day, in the morning we said goodbye to Gold and handed their fate in the hands of these forest people, then little affected by civilization.
Our new friends belonged to the genus Kyalondiga. The eldest of them was forty years old, and the other was from twenty to twenty-five years. Their faces were so tanned that had even a few olive-red hue. Udehe worn for two short braids, tightly wrapped in a red cord and decorated with gilt buttons. Elderly udeheets had left ear a small silver earring. Hats, no one was. Their clothing consisted of a long shirt, made of Chinese blue so with buckles on the side and thin straps belted at the waist, with an overlap. On the legs they were wearing short tight pants and knee pads in the same order. Generally suits udeheytsev, ornamental spiral and wavy lines that resemble the horns of deer, had the appearance of a beautiful and elegant.
Boat woodsman is a kind of a long trough slotting flat bottom, sloping stern and straight walls on the nose. From this wall, one common element to the bottom, the nose protrudes like a large wooden shovel. It has several oval and the water rises up, so that it has to end on a level with the boat. This boat is called "ulimagda" and hollowed out of poplar. It is easy, udoboupravlyaema and designed so that does not hurt, and climbs up to the water and can pass through the smallest rolls. Length ulimagdy medium size - 6.5 meters long and 50-60 centimeters and two passenger capacity at about 30-35 pounds.