C 10 September, we began to gather: the collections were labeled and placed in boxes to store them for the winter, select the appropriate path for the fall sea, people sewed tents, equip shoes, went to hire a translator Orochi boat. Day speech was appointed seventeenth, regardless of the weather. Two days before the show to our camp was the Orochi. He went quietly into the tent and asked to sit down. He appeared to be about forty years old. He was short, stocky and well built. Round head with a flat crown and a wide neck, high forehead, prominent cheekbones and a bit sparse vegetation on the face - that's the first thing that struck me. The hat he was wearing, thick, jet-black hair, plaited into a thick braid, were his hat and covered his head and the rain and the sun. He constantly squint one eye - it was a habit, acquired in childhood. He was dressed in the same way as all the other Orochi, so stop by the description of his suit is not necessary. Came to questions answered quietly, slowly, and often short "yes" and "no." From his words, I learned that he lives on the river and the Emperor Mines Harbor came on purpose, when he heard of our arrival, and learned that the river Hadi Chocho Bizanka collects all people, but too late. Now he's going back to Mine and offered his services as a guide. The fact that I had only one boat, and the second was to find somewhere along the way. My companion told me to send a cargo boat with the sea, and the river go by foot through the Mines of the mountain. He said that at home he has one extra boat, he can give.
- What is your name? - I asked him.
- Karpushka - he replied, eyes narrowing even more.
So who is this! This is the same Karpushka sailor who has a reputation for the best, the best walker on skis. No one better than he knows the sea coast to the river Samarga, no one better than he knows how to sail in precarious "tamtyga." He knows where to stick the boat where there are dangerous rocks, where there is a bay, convenient for overnight stays, and where you can chop spear fish. In Karpushka own weather - their signs. He knows what the weather will be tomorrow, what would be the excitement which the wind blows, and whether to go to sea. Among Orochi Karpushka reputed and most skillful musher. The other dogs are running well at first, but in the second half of the path barely shambles, it is all the way they are running smoothly. He somehow can affect dogs, and they'll get used to it and do not bite each other, to understand exactly what rights they Karpushka musher.
September 27 we left the Imperial Harbor. The day was gray, overcast, about to rain. Since the evening fog, hitherto lying motionless on the capes, suddenly began to rise up and meet in the clouds. They were close to the ground, covering more than half of the hill; barometer fell.
- But evil will - said Karpushka.
- Maybe to stay and ride out the storm? - I asked him.
- No, - said he. - The boat should be sent to the bay Mafatsa. Let us wait for it.
I figured it out: he wanted to take advantage of the lull and how you can move forward with the goods to the south over the water.
I must say that in the coastal area to the east of the Sikhote-Alin fall is always long. While in the pool right tributaries of the Ussuri fall of snow and cold start, in the coastal area of ??the water is not frozen. Day is so warm that you can go in his shirt, but as soon as the sun disappears behind the horizon, the dew turns to frost and puddles covered with a thin layer of ice. Shortly after the equinox summer monsoon begins to give the north-west wind. As it blows from the mainland, the protected sea cliffs relatively calm, but about the mouths of rivers, where the valley coincide with the direction of the wind gusts are so strong it that we have to wait for a lull sometimes two or three days in a row. In such cases, to sail on a boat is very dangerous.
Tips Karpushka I took note and decided to go, observing all safety precautions.
Track the thread we serve trail. Go hard on it: angular rocks, mud and water do well with the way this treacherous path. Caught up to meet us two to three polesovschikov hudotelymi horses. Their horses now and then stumbled and fell on the front knees, sighing heavily, with difficulty dragged feet of Reshetin between roots and stumbled moved on.
If you go to Cape Nicholas and look toward the river Tumnin and then move your eyes to the south, the observer struck by the difference in the structure of the bank.
To the north of the harbor it is composed of basalt. One after the other, like long capes languages ??pulled out to sea. Hence, they seem low and stolovoobraznymi. There are well-developed shoreline, between Cape formed very convenient bays and coves. To the south is drawn a different picture. Doko large granite mountain range runs parallel to the shore and washed places along its strike. Abroad, where the basalt cover in contact with the granite ridge, is a bay of the worker. From above, as far as water clarity, it is seen that the broad submarine platform also consists of granite.
Whiten the massive crystalline rocks on the surface of the land and in the water so characteristic that can not be mistaken.
Topsoil land on the slopes of the ridge Doko negligible. Skinny, sickly vegetation barely in the ground for food. Tree roots trail on top, laid bare and dry up. Winds shake the trees, making them die sooner, and as such remain standing, crowning the coastal edge of a wide strip of dead. Immediately after majachnye cape has a slight curve of coastline, which forms a sort of bay, called Bazaar. Here in the cliffs above the granite layer overlies a large conglomerate, and above it a thin but dense layer of basaltic lava, not saturated gases.
The trail was among the pine trees. I notice that the branches of spruce did not grow horizontally, but at an acute angle relative to the trunk, and asked Karpushka, why are they so overhang.
- When blowing Sual (northeast wind), drops a lot of wet snow, then it freezes and pushes the branch down, so all the time, every year - posted Orochi.
Explanation was correct and simple.
At about five pm we reached the winter hut. It was an old, dilapidated, dirty and raw. From here the trail turns to the west, and we ought to keep the beach and go to the south. At dusk the rain. Poor nailed roof of recuperator wintering flowed everywhere. We did not sleep all night, moved from one place to another, and sought, where drier, but everywhere was equally damp. So we promayalis until morning and were delighted when the opportunity came to get under way again in a way. The weather was rainy and foggy. Karpushka went ahead and easily forest man jumping from one to the other fallen trees. Water on his black hair ran down the back and shoulders, but he paid little attention to it.
The higher we climbed, the stronger the wind was blowing. The pass started to descend the steep slope. The left side of the fog was the noise of the surf. With each step it became more clearly and loudly. Clutching at shrubs and tree trunks, we hardly went down to a key, and it will come to the mouth of the river Mafatsa, meaning "venerable old man." Menacing look was agitated ocean. Huge waves roaring rushed to the shore, dotted with half shell fragments and kelp. Overwhelmed water up to the top edge of the alluvial the surf. The next wave, met ebb first, blowing like boiling water, and with even greater bitterness rushed ashore. Was quiet for a moment, but when the sea water began to slide down rocks with a loud murmur again protested. And so from year to year, from century to century ...
Orochi pulled the boat out on the shore, of oars and poles, they made a gable frame tents and covered his sails. Wet fin badly burned and heavily smoked. Dog huddled under the boat and curled, tried to warm himself breathing. In weather like this night seems darker, more rain and surf even more formidable.
In the second half of the night the wind began to die down a bit, but the rain came with a vengeance. My sleep I heard him banging on taut cloth tents. Orochi did not sleep all the time and in turn puts a wood on the fire.
The next day the rain had stopped, but again blew a fresh wind. By sea again came Belyakov.
The sin we have forgotten in the concession and the whole camp pharmacy formalin, so necessary for zoological collections. What to do? Help us took Karpushka. Despite the bad weather, he decided to go to sea in a boat harbor. Two Orochi, whom he invited to himself, immediately began to gather. With them gone, and vortices.
I was worried about the issue as they recede from the shore at the time of such a strong surf. First of all Karpushka told Orochi bring a dozen large stones, not rounded and angular, and he began to collect fin and clean it with an ax from twigs. When all was ready, he began putting stones on the bottom of the boat may denser. Then he laid on the bank fin rowers put in place, and stayed on the beach. After waiting for a time when the largest shaft collapsed with a crash on alluvial strip of surf, and after that came a short lull, he immediately loosened the rope. Due to its severity boat quickly rolled down the Brakes on the water. At a time when she was ready to completely break away from the shore, he put his oar in the sand and jumped on her stern. But at this time found the second big wave. The boat shot up his nose and took up the position of more than forty-five degrees. Nothing! Steering wheel was in expert hands! Despite the strong push Karpushka stay on his feet. The wind ruffled his long hair, spray foam and dazzled his eyes, and he seemed not to notice them. Again, the bow went up, then rose feed. Karpushka figure appeared on the crest of a wave, then completely hidden in the water. He waved his hand to us and began to say something to the rowers. One of the Orochi began to throw stones out of the boat and the other to build a sail. The boat was quickly removed. We have been watching her eyes. Five minutes later, she became faint point and then completely disappeared in the waves.
To rain made me go back to the tent. By evening, the storm played out again. Again, there was a heavy rain. I managed to go around if Karpushka Lighthouse Point? The sea was raging all night ...
Two days later the Orochi and brought back safely pharmacy, fresh bread and a box of vegetables. September 20th, we said goodbye to the river Mafatsa and, using a light tail wind, went to Andrew Bay, which flows into the river mines.
From the mouth of the river bank Mafatsa makes a turn to the south-east and stretches in this direction to Cape Sandy. On this stretch of massive crystalline rocks yield tuffs. Layers of mostly lie horizontally and only place to do small deviations in both directions. They dramatically colored and clearly visible, especially if a little away from the coast. Half way between the harbor and the lake Imperial Gydzhu allocated mountain ocher, also consisting of granite.
Despite the strength of the rocks that make up this beach, it is still broken, as evidenced by the recent formation of Coastal Gate. Three of them: two - near the river Mafatsa and others - near Mount ocher.
Near the river Gydzhu were many birds. There was a fish. Large sea gulls and Pacific broody flocks accompanied her. They rose all at once, shouting, circling for a while in the air, then fell back into the water, and now and then flew through each other. There were so many that the surface of the sea seemed to be covered with snow. Seagulls - surprisingly slender bird. With amazing ease they get on the water and just as easy to go up into the air. They fly great and, like predators, can fly without making movements wings. They swim flirty and small sitting on the water, just a little belly touching the surface of the sea, and at least they are elegant when their slim legs are on the rocks and indifferent glance at the passing boats.
Some big hawk chasing a seagull. As soon as she sat down at the water, he did not touch her, and began to soar, but just gull rose in the air, he again rushed after her. Then again, the seagull to the water, and the hawk was taken again in circles. Why he did not touch her as she sat on the water, and, finally, why all the other gulls did not express fear? Obviously feathered predator was afraid of water, but then why he pursued only one cup of tea, while others flew freely through the air, not paying any attention to him?
Martin-anglers kept some distance. They sat quietly, and apparently little interest in fish. Martin seems to medium sized bird, and only when you kill him and take in hand, then struck by its size.
I noticed among the gulls and petrels. With surprising ease, they stay in the air and flying constantly turned her beautiful head in one direction and then the other. For these long-winged seemed headwind could be a hindrance. Petrels something attracted to the south. For a whole day just flew in this one direction, and there was no one who would go to meet them.
In the afternoon the wind changed and blew out to meet us. He became a breeze up and developed a big wave. Then we came to the shore and landed near the river Gydzhu.
Bad weather forced us prodnevat another day. During sunset Karpushka climbed on coastal cliffs and looked at the horizon and the sky. When it was dark, he came back and said that tomorrow at dawn you can go further, and so we need to go to bed earlier. After dinner I went to the goat skin that served my bed, and covered with a blanket. Outside came incessantly rhythmic sound of the surf, he could hear the wood burned in the fire. Karpushka talked about the earthquake that happened three years ago. It was felt and the river Tumnin in Imperial Harbor and River Mines. First, there was a subterranean noise, then rocked the earth so that the water splashed out of the boilers. In many places on the beach there were landslides. Then he said something more interesting, but I could not overcome my sleep. Eyes closed themselves. My neighbor snoring contagious influence on other people. After a few minutes silence reigned in the bivouac, the dogs were asleep, too, the fires died out completely ...
The next day Karpushka really woke us up very early. Not yet dawned, but the stars could be seen that the sun is close to the horizon. During the night the sea calmed down considerably. Waves gently clasping the rocks and almost silently rolled back.
After tea, my companions quickly started packing boats and willingly took the oars, and I tightly wrapped in a blanket and watched the wake on the sea.
The right of the boat was a rocky shore, consisting of all the same color tuffs and lavas, and the left - a sleepy ocean. He breathed a mighty chest and swell gently rose and lowered our boats. Near the river Gydzhu tuff layers were inclined position. From a distance you can trace the syncline and a clear picture of the air seat anticlines. Rounding Cape Chumakov, our boat came closer to the shore. Now you can review and details. Under the influence of atmospheric conditions in the sandstone formed many deep caverns, separated by thin walls. They huddled sea birds, mostly guillemots and puffins. Below there was a destruction of another order. The waves smashed into the rock sort of cave and Giant boilers. Water smoothed the sharp edges of the stones and gave them various bizarre shapes, which gave such a wealth of material imagination natives.
After Cape Chumaky coastal hills take on the character of broad and shallow ridges consisting of quartz porphyry.
I wanted to photograph the bank and told to remove the paddle from the water. For ten minutes I was deadheading until established unit. Despite the fact that we are not rowing boat continued to move along our coast. We carried over. Whether it was a branch of the general circular flow in the Sea of ??Japan or effect monsoon scolding seawater into the bay, where it heads south along the coast, I do not understand.
In the afternoon we reached the bay Innocent and made it a great stop. When Landing Vikhrov protomollyuska found. It looked like a sort of elongated oval half the size of the fruit to the children's hands. Karpushka called it "Pomo" and said that it can be eaten raw. After that he cut the belly with a knife-foot tunic that looks like a pink and white long-calf, and her appetite was chewing. The back of the animal consists of several flat stones, approaching one another and the top covered with rough skin. According to our guide, these bones are very sharp and they are very easy to cut his hand, which I had the opportunity to immediately make himself personally.
We did not have long to rest. North-eastern part of the sea began to get dark, the wind was "Nunela" which this time of year is always very sharp.
On the advice of Karpushka we did not wait for the water to boil in a pot, poured it on the ground and went to the boats.