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Magazine for tourists

Table of contents


Kinds of tourism

Excursion (author BV Emelyanov)

introduction

1. Fundamentals Excursion

2. guided technique

3. Professional skills guide

Tunisia (author Danielle shetar Friedrich chum)

In the Sikhote-Alin (author VK Arseniev)

 From the author
 Cupid in the lower
 Up anyuyu
 Pass
 Lighthouse
 Orochi
 Along the coast in boats
 On the river Samarga
 Anxiety
 Owl fisher
 Hunting
 Blizzard
 On mountain rivers
 Reverse pass through the Sikhote-Alin
 Again by the sea
 Three coffins
 Tornado near the mouth of the river Tumnin
 Whale-temu
 Snake wedding
 Hawk and Hare
 Fight eagle in the air
 Rookery
 Hunting for moose
 Owl nest
 Cape syurkum
 Winter hike along the river Khungari
Michail bulgakov. the heart of a dog

Mikhail bulgakov. the master and margarita

Charlotte bronte. jane eyre

F. scott fitzgerald / the great gatsby

Jerome klapka jerome / three men in a boat


 Home
     In the Sikhote-Alin (author VK Arseniev)
          Lighthouse

Light keeper

In the night from 11 to 12 September the wind began to subside. Anton Sagdy several times went to the beach, staring into the distance and motion of the clouds trying to guess the weather. Looking at it, one might think that the circumstances are unfavorable. I was about to go on a trip to Mount Iodo, when Orochi commotion and began to prepare the boat.

We will have to take the reader long journey along the coast, and therefore must be familiar with the design Oroch seaworthy boats (tamtyga). It is very easy and sewn from thin boards. Instead of iron nails Orochi use wood (larch) pegs. Being flat-bottomed, tamtyga sitting in water mainly its middle part, with a raised bow and stern. This design makes it very convenient and allows you to stick to bank anywhere, as long as there are no sharp stones. Loads in the boat are distributed as follows: two-thirds - in the stern between the rowers and the steering and one-third - in the nose. Since the bottom of the boat arched, all the water seeping through the cracks, flows down to the middle and easily pumped overboard birch bark woks. Rowing paddle consists of a lever with a handle hole for oarlocks and blade, disc-shaped at the base and tapering to the end. Oarlocks are made of fir twigs, which are attached to the sides of the boat lykami upright. Instead used quadrangular sail cloth tent poles attached to it, kosokrestoobrazno tied to one of the benches. Oroch seaworthy boat of medium size, with four rowers, one steering and two passengers can lift up to 30-40 pounds of payload.

Ten o'clock in the morning we went into the boat and set off. Chief Petty Officer and leader was Anton Sagdy. I was surprised that the discipline that prevailed in the squad. All his young Orochi orders executed quickly, and they worked in silence, quickly, there was no dispute or argument. This is the law for all seafarers. Only under strict discipline can successfully deal with the water element. Land people do not always understand it.

When we came out of the river of evidence, for the boat was picked up and carried her into the sea. Towards were big waves, topped by white crests, one above the other, each more terrifying.

Anton Sagdy ordered the rowers to row the boat to contain, and he stood up to the stern and peered inquisitively forward. He seemed to be waiting for the right moment. Seizing the moment, he shouted:

- Ha!

Orochi piled together on the oars. As soon as the boat drew level with the outer edge of the sand spit, Anton Sagdy turned sharply to the right. Immediately to the left rose a huge wave. She rushed straight at us, claps, foamed and hissed. Obeying the steering oar, the boat went to meet her and a little obliquely. After that, she shot up up and tipped to starboard. Wave passed: more rowers beat on the oars. Wave again and again the same maneuver. Tamtyga momentarily found herself in the water trough, then immediately took off the ridge, heavily settled stern and after that buried his nose in the white foam. It was the ninth wave. Then the boat straightened bar and surf the excitement stayed behind. Then Anton Sagdy for a second boat, gave some advice and ordered the helmsman to row.

The whole space between the rivers Hutu Tumnin and Mines filled basalt. This lava flow was moving from west to east and wedged into the sea long tongues, so here formed many peninsulas, bays and inlets. Imperial Harbor was a deep dip. Its banks too are made up of basalt. Forest of larch, spruce and Ayan Khingan fir, densely covers all capes and gully down to the sea.

I sat next to Anton Sagdy and tried to remember what he was saying.

First cove called Namshuka (distorted "Namuka" from "Nam", which means sea). Behind it further south between Cape Shinako Chzhuanka and stretched big bay Silantiev. It flows into a creek Chzhuanka, which got its name from the word "Zhu", which means house. "Chzhuanka" translated into Russian will be "village." And indeed, in the very depths of the bay nestled Oroch small village. Then, the next bay to Cape Ton Ton Ton and the river, and behind them a small but cozy nook with Syakta nameless creek. It has a waterfall Sydyu, near which the devil lives. There often tremble, someone walking through the woods, screaming, whistling and makes people sleep. Another note outstanding Cape Aya (the word means "good"). The strange name he got because immediately behind him is a large bay Vanina. If during bad weather Orochi can reach by boat this cape, they shout: Aya, Aya! .. Anton Sagdy also issued a traditional exclamation, leaned on the oar and pulled into the bay Vanina.

High rocky coast of her, the dark still water and nobody breaks the silence to create an environment inhospitable, sullen. In blocks of stones, piled randomly on the beach, lurching old trees and rocks in the dark felt some apprehension. If someone unknown, scary hiding in the woods and watched our boats. In the bay a small stream flowed Uy, near the mouth of which was one Oroch house. Human presence mitigates the severe beauty of the bay Vanina and eerie feeling, inspired by such a strange situation, gradually began to lift.

When Orochi landed, they went about their business. I'm tired of sitting in the boat in place, and I went to walk on naplyvnoy surf. She narrowed more and more, and finally collapsed. I drew attention to the great depth of the bay. On the left was a high wall, and on the right - water. If the sea suddenly receded, I would have felt on the ledge, hanging over the abyss. Reaching the end of the trail, I sat down on one of the rocks and began to look around. My eyes focused on the jellyfish. It then deploys his robe, then quickly squeeze it and squeeze out the water and pushes move forward. Suddenly, a little away on the water appeared circles, and after that it seemed on the surface of a large head monsters brown-gray color, with small ears, a black nose and bristly mustache, a human head was more four times. The animal took a deep breath and then opened his mouth, showing large teeth. After that it turned his head and stared at me with his black bulging eyes. If it pleases to climb out of the low alluvial surf, then I would cut way back, and I found myself pressed against the shore to the edge. Then I decided to get ahead of him and jumped off the rock, but the beast itself scared me. Once more he sighed loudly and disappeared under the water.

Going back, I told the Orochi, which apparently saw the sea lions. This large representative eared seals in the recent past has been very common, but due to the constant harassment of man he almost disappeared about Imperial Harbor. Now the lions are found south of Cape Misty.

Orochi believe Steller sea bear, are in antagonism with his ground brother. His appearance in the Bay Vanina means that he was either injured or frightened killer whale gladiator (Temu).

Orochi also told me one of their many prejudices, namely a knife, who once had to skin the sea lions, we can not bear to cut meat and generally take it with you on the hunt should not be. It is best to throw a knife into the sea.

Half an hour later we went on. Meanwhile, the weather turned bad again: the south-east wind brought the fog, and the troubled sea. Luckily, it was near the Imperial Harbor. After rounding Cape Misty, boats entered in the open bay anonymous. On the left was a large island Menshikov recently Connect a narrow strip of sand with the mainland. Orochi dragged the boat through her hair, and immediately fell into the bay Wye (North), forming part of the Imperial Harbor. Last length of 11 and a width of 3 km and is separated from the sea by a high mountain ridge Doko, is made up of massive crystalline rocks. Imperial is located in the harbor from the south-west to north-east, and, in turn, has several bays and coves with Oroch names, which were later expelled Russian. If you go from the entrance to the harbor on the eastern bank, and rounded at the end, to go on the western - the peninsula Menshikov, these bays are located in the following order: first - Tsaapkoy (Mayachnaya). Here are unloaded cargo destined for the lighthouse. The next cove Dayankaya (Japan). In the depths of her few houses nestled Russian fishermen. Next two coves nearby: Chabak and Okacha. There were buildings Australian timber company. Just in front of them is a shallow bay Hadi, which flows into the river of the same name. Next to her and to the north - Bay Bowden (Kostareva) and further to the north-east Agge (Constantine Bay), which will be discussed below, and, finally, the Wye, in which we got through Perevolok of Nameless Cove. Majachnye against the bay is a small island Seogobyatsani, now called gingerbread.

At dusk we reached the concession and began bivouac on the beach near abundant water source. Our view and our weary worn costumes attracted general attention. News of the expedition route and severe hunger strike spread throughout the neighborhood. Concession employees came to us to ask how we were going and to invite to tea. It was quite embarrassing, but nothing could be done and I had to pay tribute to the goodwill that such heavy a price. Of new friends, I learned that the office of the concession has for us letters and money, and are stored in the warehouses of boxes with clothes, food and scientific equipment, sent from Vladivostok. The next day was a Sunday, but in spite of that, for us, the warehouse and gave everything we needed. We cleaned up in the bath, cast off rags and put on new clothes and clean underwear.

A week later came the steamer on which I posted Gusev. He, too, rested, and peace of mind it has been restored, which we were very pleased. Later I learned that he has recovered completely. The first trip I made in Constantine Bay. Let the reader imagine a crack in a broken-eight kilometers in length, filled with water. At the end of a small river empties into the Gulf of Ma. High rocky shores covered with dense pine forest, very picturesque and speak from one side or the other, like the scenes in the theater. First Point on the north coast is known as the "signal", followed by the pretty cove Putaki (Postovaya), the depth of 30 meters. It was sunk by the frigate "Pallada". In 1854-1855 at the Sevastopol campaign when warships were taken to Nikolaevsk-on-Amur, the frigate "Pallada", due to its deep draft, could not pass through the bar of the Amur and stayed in the Imperial Harbor.

I told to hit the beach. Before twilight was still far away, and because giving his companions organize camp, I took the gun and went to inspect the area, which is on the cards is called the post Constantine. Here the dream to build a city Konstantinovsk, and all collapsed at once. Large ship buried in the bottom of the bay, and above it is still and black as pitch, the water on the shore of the cemetery with the collapse of the graves, rotting fences and fallen crosses, which in some places preserved inscriptions. From the barracks and the arsenal of traces left. Batteries, quickly lined up at the same time in 1855, preserved trees, destroyed by time and washed with water. In the forest on the edge of cliffs, is lurching iron monument, which is made with the following: "the dead from scurvy in 1853 Irtysh transport navigator Chudinov and 12 sailors with him and the Russian-American company four sailors and two privates." The bay and in the woods above the cemetery deadening silence reigned. Killing people, killing hope, lost everything - only death has left its traces. I pondered the impermanence of human existence. As if to confirm my words, one cross, standing in an inclined position, and apparently rotten at the base, with a dull noise to the ground. Spider scared, hiding behind a board, on which was written the name once buried, ran on wood and quickly disappeared into the grass. At the base of the cross swarming ants. Sad feeling inspired by the ruins of the post for me. I wanted to people. I threw the gun on his shoulder, and walked slowly to the bivouac.

It was late afternoon. The sun had just set behind the mountains and sends up its golden-pink rays. In the sky at the very zenith of small silvery wing clouds. In calm water reflected the wooded shore. Down by the brook were white two tents, and around the fire burned. Opal smoke trickle rose up and quietly melted in a clean, cool air.

The bivouac I found my companions in the collection. The next day we went back to the early concession.

Two days later I went to Nicholas lighthouse, where he intended to tie his shooting to an astronomical point and make amendments chronometer. Way of concessions go timber along the eastern shore of the Imperial Harbor. This equestrian trail is very dirty, and can be used only in daylight. Six kilometers it goes on the road, running from majachnye bay on hilly terrain and crosses several mountain streams. On either side instead of the old fires stretch wasteland covered with young larch and white birch.

Most lighthouse built in 1897 at the tip of the ridge Doko, is made up of granite and has an uncharacteristically columnar jointing. Orochi in rocks jutting out of the earth have seen the petrified people were afraid to go there. Later in the construction of the lighthouse, these fears are dispelled.

Lighthouse was an old boatswain sailing fleet Maidan. He met me on the porch, and put out his hand. I saw before me a complete man in his forties with a bald patch on his head, with large features and low vegetation on the upper lip. He was wearing a black naval jacket with brass buttons, the same black pants and high boots. Old sailors have a special gait. Maidan and walking shook his body and strangely had his hands as if to grab hold of something. He was constantly smiling and serious mine was not to his face. It was a very good-natured man and efficient campaigner. To do him justice, he kept the lighthouse in good order: hand was visible everywhere careful owner and purity of this, what can only be found on a military ship. Floors were polish and shone like polished, walls painted with oil paint, clean arguing with furnaces that are not only beautiful, but also washed weekly. All metal parts have been cleaned, glass rubbed with chalk. It was nice to see all of this order, and I could not deny myself the pleasure to stay at the lighthouse for three days. Before nightfall we Maidanova sat down, this time in the room came a sailor, and reported that the sea is thick fog.

- Head of the gramophone - told him the lighthouse keeper.

- Yes! - Replied the sailor, and left.

Ten minutes later, a terrible roar roused soaked sea vapors heavier than air. The sound was so strong that it rattled against the glass in the windows. Caught unawares, I even got up from their seats.

- What is it? - I asked his companion.

- Gramophone! - He replied.

- What is the gramophone? - Again I asked in disbelief.

- A horn - he said innocently.

Two minutes later, the sound was repeated again and again, and so all night, all night and all the next day to evening. Soon my ear used to. I stopped noticing the rhythmic roar of sirens. It did not prevent me not only to work, and even sleep.

The next morning I woke Maidan and declared that the foggy and rainy weather. This is confirmed by the siren, which was buzzing incessantly, sending a powerful sound waves into the misty distance.

The first half of the day I spent my travel diary. Having finished with the work, I asked the lighthouse, if he had any books.

- No, - he said. - That we have no salmon.

I expressed surprise that the lighthouse, where boredom would seem you can die, there are no books.

- We have no time to read, - said Maidan - day and night, a lot of work.

I advised him to write several books and has promised to give a list of them, but warned me Maidan. He copied the title of all the books that I had with him.

Later I was told that he had received these books and put them in a prominent place. Each visitor, he showed them, and said that's what I told him to get them to read, among whom fate will throw chance to the lighthouse ...

At dusk we went with him to the tower for inspection lamp. When I went to the bridge with railings around the lantern, I was struck by the vast number of Myotis, flown into the light, and immediately began to collect them in the stain with potassium cyanide. In the evening I was putting insects into envelopes and making signs to them.

At eight and a half Maidan, sitting at the table, began to doze.

- Go to sleep - I told him.

- You can not, - he said.

- Why not? - I asked again.


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