Samarga River near the mouth is divided into several channels. Islands between alders and purple willow thickets. On the right side it stretches the vast expanse of fertile land with good, very suitable for agriculture. First there are the magnificent meadows, closer to the mountains visible grove of elm, maple, linden, birch and poplar. Adheres to the left side of the river valley. Where it comes to the rights of its edge, near the mouth of a mountain stream Kyngato, on higher ground was fanza Kiveta. It was a wooden building with a floor and a ceiling, with some doors opening to the street, with two windows, one of which looked out over the river, and the other - in the woods. Opposite the door was a blank wall with a wide berth. The building is heated by an iron stove set in the left corner near the door. I purposely so detailed description huts Kiveta because here we had to spend a long time waiting for cargoes, without which we could not move in the way.
I spent the first days of familiarization with the surrounding area. First of all I was interested in the question, whence came the strange name "Samarga." The Chinese call the river "Umi-da-go" (that is, the valley of Umi) udeheytsy - "Date", which is translated into Russian means "mouth" and should therefore be applicable is only to the lower reaches of the river. By Emelyanov AA * river is Nyuigy. Unfortunately, he does not interpret that word. It is very similar to Neng ("ng" is pronounced with the nasal sound), which means "red dog", which is not usual in these places. Russian literature of the river for the first time mentions Bosnjak **, *** and then Maximov. The first calls her "Samalgi", second "Samalga."
* AA Emelyanov. Northern Sea of ??Japan.
I. ** Bosnjak. page 209.
*** SV M and kc and m o c. In the East, 1909, Volume XII, Part 2, page 32.
Cholo on the river (near the Great Xing'an in Manchuria) is Oroch race "Morgyn." The name "Ca" - own family name. Orochi from the river Cholo call themselves "self-Morgyn." We know of cases where the family of Solon came through the Sikhote-Alin Tahobe the river, where I found them in 1907. Orochi can also migrate here from Manchuria and bring its generic name, but this is only a guess. In any case, the origin of the name Samarga remains mysterious. On Samarga I found two old men, who still remembered how there were Russian. The first information about the "Lotz" came from Golds with Cupid. After some time, they saw the ships in which no smoke sail slowly walked away from the coast. Natives quietly watched them and did not light the lights. Then three Lotz came to them from the south, the two went on a boat, and a third was on foot, something watched and sketched on paper. Was not this the surveyor Grossevich?
From among Samarga udeheytsev moved Inganu kind of Kamediga. He was a life, "Zhang", ie, the judge, and the foreman, on the coast of the river Botchi Amagu. Apparently, it was a clever and competent person about whom udeheytsev preserved many stories. He died forty years ago, and was buried on a high left bank of the river, just below the hut Kiveta *.
* In 1912, the entire tomb Inginu with a coffin and a well-preserved corpse (natural mumizatsiya) with all accessories funeral I was sent to the Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography of the Academy of Sciences.
The first Russian fur buyers Samarga appeared on the river in 1900. There were three people, and they came from Khabarovsk in the Sikhote-Alin. One of them in the way their legs froze. The two went back, and the patient left the yurt udeheytsa Baga. This Russian was sick for about two months and died. Udeheytsy were in a quandary as to bury it, and to what the afterlife take his soul, so that it does not interfere with people. Apparently, they succeeded, because the spirit of the deceased Lotz showed himself to nothing.
I had become attached to any astronomical points. Closest to the river was Samarga point at Cape Soufriere. I decided to take advantage of good weather and on the same day in the afternoon went there to spend the night on site and the next morning at sunrise to make amendments chronometer. To help myself, I took Chinese Zhang Bao and two udeheytsev: Venza and Yang kind of seem. I badly timed and to the mouth of the river Samarga arrived late.
Imperceptibly summer passed, and autumn powerfully came into its own. All vegetation has faded, and the ground was covered with fallen leaves from the trees. Autumn, winning summer, now I reluctantly gave way to winter.
As we approached the river Adimi sun had just disappeared over the horizon. Forested mountains, capes, arranged one after the other, like the scenes in the theater, and majestically calm ocean lit up pink glow reflected from the sky. Everything is changed. Similarly it was a different world - Ember, a world of silence and stillness.
The path on which we were walking, a little before reaching the Cape of Soufriere, turned to the left to the forest. We left her and went straight to the river was Adimi.
At this time udeheytsy Venza and Yanguy suddenly agitated. They were slow step, huddle together.
- What happened? - I turned to Yanguyu.
- Thun - he said, and pointed with his hand to a remote dry wood.
- It is still the devil! - Added Venza frightened whisper.
I wanted to get closer to the terrible tree, but they said that the place is bad and you should not go there.
I looked at Zhang Bao. A contemptuous smile played on his lips. He looked at udeheytsev as people infected with silly superstition.
I tried to insist. Venza and then down to the ground Yanguy his wallet and said they will go back. Had to yield. We went back again on the trail and went to the forest. Here, across the river were transferred a large tree. Chopped branches and other signs indicate that someone has to have used it as a bridge. Did not turn out badly. At first the trail a little further into the depths, but then started to pick up the right and climb to the Cape of Soufriere. We took advantage of her while she was in the desired direction for us, and then left the trail and went straight to the virgin cliffs, where there was a small place that is free of tree and shrub vegetation.
Approaching dusk. Fiery river overflowed dawn on the horizon. Precisely there, in the west, there was a terrible volcanic eruption and burned land. The mountains in the distance are painted in purple tones. Immersed in the ocean of drowsiness.
Once we settled on a camp, I went to walk through the neighborhood. I volunteered to accompany Chang Bao. We first went to the old road, and then clicking the river Adimi, headed for the tree, which so frightened udeheytsev. Thick chunky trunk on his chest height was divided into four parts. Like the branches of a giant cactus, they just rose up. Small knot is not there at all. At the top of one branch was attached to a wooden image of a bird, on the other - a rough likeness of man, and the third - a beast, like a fat crocodile, and the fourth - something like a toad. All the wood was bared from the bark, and, in addition, the trunk, at the same distance from each other, up to the top right circular cutouts in two centimeters deep wood was removed, and on the stump, just where the main trunk was divided into four branches were still cut four human faces. Little away someone's bones were scattered, judging by the size - elk, and maybe a bear.
At this time, the air flashed some big shadow. I looked up and saw a large nocturnal bird. She quietly made a sharp turn, fell to the ground and immediately disappeared from view.
Zhang Bao hurried to the spot where he had just seen the bird.
- S! (Is), - he said.
I ran to him. Zhang Bao stood beside another dead tree, which has the form of thick stump with two build-up. The upper part of the trunk to lay on the ground. I immediately recognized birch Herman.
- Where? - I asked, thinking that Zhang Bao caught a bird.
- Here! - He replied, putting his hand on the stump.
I thought I was a stocky trunk was hollow and the bird was sitting in it, but since I no holes in it is not found, then asked again:
- Here! - Again, a Chinese and have responded to the painful side of the build-up stump.
- Do not know - I said to my friend.
He made an impatient gesture and told me that the bird has swallowed a tree. He saw it instantly disappeared, almost flew up to him.
After that, I finally ceased to understand him and laughed. However, Zhang Bao insisted. He said that some trees have the ability to absorb the influx of animals and birds, as long as they sit on them or just somehow accidentally touch the side, paw or wing. Missing birds and animals can always be found in the wood. I found it even more amusing, that he had just treated with the distrust of prejudices udeheytsev, now suddenly he at the same place he believed in the possibility of absorption of a night bird dry old birch tree. In response to my laughter Zhang Bao said pointedly:
- Zong min te or Kanka (well, tomorrow you'll see).
Twenty minutes later we again climbed the Cape Soufriere. By the way, I began to ask Zhang Bao of the miraculous tree. He walked in silence for a while, but then went on to say that the Chinese know a lot of things that do not know Russian. The tone of his speech was heard convinced of his superiority over the satellite, which will of fate is not given that knowledge.
I tried to make it clear to him that I listen to his teachings. Playing on the psychology of success.
Zhang Bao told me that these trees on earth are extremely rare. It can be a living and dead tree, no matter. There are dangerous trees that absorb a all animals and birds. Sometimes they re-released birds at will, and often detained for life. There are those trees that are a camera, a stamp under the bark of those who approach them. A person is never in danger of being swallowed up, but the image of it can be captured in a timber. According to the Chinese, the tree that we saw today, belongs to the category of dangerous and is called "Sue Cho-la".
Then I asked what he thought regarding shamanic "tree. Zhang Bao as a particularly shrill spat.
- Taz a fool - he said, and his voice was heard contemptuous irony.
It was late. Night dusk had recovered ground. We added step. The forest began to thin out, the trail became better. Finally appeared in front of the light. This was our camp.
After dinner we again talked about the tree, absorb a night bird. Yanguy Venza and more entrenched in the belief that the cause of all the shamanic tree and that all this is no more tricks as the "evil spirit." I pointed out to them that the world is nothing bad has happened. On it was Young again in his own weighty objection. Russian live in cities and towns and are in the forest, and so they and not have to deal with evil spirits that guard udeheytsev at every turn. Again, ironic smile flashed on his lips, Zhang Bao.
After dinner, everyone started to get a night, and I sat down and took the diary to record their daily experiences. Having finished with the work, I got up and went up the path to the very cape. Magnificent picture presented itself to my eyes. The surface of the ocean was completely calm. In the mirror surface of the water reflects the sky, dotted with millions of stars. It was as if I am in the center of the universe, as if the sun has retired to infinitely far away and was lost among the myriad stars. All earthly joy and sorrow seemed so paltry and insignificant as prejudice my companions of the wonderful trees near the river tunnel Adimi. When I awoke from my dream, it was too late, because the stars have moved significantly in the sky.
In the other side, where there was a dead tree, Ukhalov owl-pop gun.
Back at camp, I once again stoked the fire, and, wrapped in a blanket and lay down by the fire and immediately killed all deep sleep.
Day soon as dawn began when I woke his companions be fast asleep. While udeheytsy warmed tea, I Zhang Bao prepared everything for observation. Accumulated in the east of the mists as if to shield him the sun, but, convinced of the futility of the unequal struggle, began to melt rapidly. I waited until the light of dawn rose slightly across the sky, and began to take the tool to the absolute height above the horizon.
This work has not been taken away for over an hour, and then we packed up their things and went to the old road. When we caught up with the shaman tree, Zhang Bao took his knapsack and pulled out her ax. He asked me to wait a little bit and went back to where we last saw the night birds. In daylight, both udeheytsa not afraid to "devil", but it did not fit right up to the tree and keep aside. They sat on the ground and began to smoke a pipe, and I went to see what the Chinese will do. Zhang Bao found the birch stump and began to cut one of its build-up. He worked well as a carpenter: a hatchet in his hand could replace nastrug. When he cut down the convex part of the build-up, it was his abate completely. From time to time, bending down to stump scrutinized place felling, often repeating the same exclamation, "Ai-Yaha ...".
Then he turned to me and said, "No te kank iou zi" (that is, look, here's a night bird.) I leaned over to the stump and cut wood saw this layering it that for some fancy, indeed, could be seen figure resembling an owl or owl. Next to it was another, also depicting a smaller bird, then like a beetle or even a frog. According to the Chinese, they were all living beings, absorbed a tree in order to live a more never return to earth.
I wished I had with me was a camera, and wanted to sketch the strange shapes of wood, but I did not.
Zhang Bao, thinking that convinced me away from the tree with a look of satisfaction on his face.
The rest of the way, we walked in silence, and in the early afternoon arrived in huts Kiveta.
Waiting for cargo from the river Kuznetsova took a long time. To cut it, I have taken trips to the vicinity of our headquarters.
During these trips, I was able to watch as the river freezes. October 20 had the first sludge. Siberians call her "fat." It is small, thin, floating on the water ice chips. They increase in number and in size. 28th went particularly thick slush. From 4 to 10 November was cold and windy weather. At this time in the shallows was formed anchor ice. How to explain his appearance? Probably in the formation of its participating cold air, captured foaming water. Maybe it was also a brash, jammed between the stones. Initially frozen ice crystals were loose and easily detached from the bottom with a stick, but then they became firmer. During the week in the shallows as they increased that formed these icy rapids with waterfalls. Little by little anchor ice has begun to spread from the rapids downstream to deeper places. When he collected a lot, he began to emerge from the bottom and lift stones of different sizes.
About half of November Samarga started freezing. Floating ice mass began to gather on bends of the river and formed torosovye cork. Broke the ice and piled in heaps on the shore. Then the water went on dry ducts and flooded all the low-lying islands. Such channels in the winter much easier journey, allowing cut corners. By November 20 Samarga stood for 25 kilometers from the mouth, but it was still above the ice-free, except zaberegov which is narrow, the wide eaves lined on both sides.
When freeze-long water was high and then covered with an icy crust of. Then its level was lowered, then settled in the middle of the river ice, and off the coast of arched and sometimes broke off to form large voids.
We somehow came together with Zhang Bao on the river and was talking. Suddenly he stopped and said:
- Yaza! (Ie duck).
- Where? - I asked him in surprise.
- Wait, look, - he said.
After a minute or two I really heard these sounds, which produce the ducks when they are looking in the water extraction.
- That's a miracle! - I said out loud. - Ducks in December, when all the puddles frozen through. But where are they?
- Here! - Posted Zhang Bao, pointing to the ice.
We went looking for birds. Zhang Bao went on the ice and by the sounds of trying to locate them.
In one place there was a large hole in the ice. Between its lower edge and the water level in the river was about a meter away. I went to the hole and saw two teal, peacefully sailed past me. One of them are searching for something in the water, and the other stayed there, shaking its tail and make sounds like not to peep, not to quack.
It was a curious phenomenon. Hence, not all ducks fly in the autumn, then part of them remains the winter. In the cavities beneath the ice, they are protected from the cold and, apparently, find enough food.
Kiveta hut near our camp was set weather shack with tools and a relatively high mast with a long pendant, which gives an indication of the direction of the wind, and the strength of its direction of motion of the clouds. Observer was a whirlwind.