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Magazine for tourists

Table of contents


Kinds of tourism

Excursion (author BV Emelyanov)

introduction

1. Fundamentals Excursion

2. guided technique

3. Professional skills guide

Tunisia (author Danielle shetar Friedrich chum)

In the Sikhote-Alin (author VK Arseniev)

 From the author
 Cupid in the lower
 Up anyuyu
 Pass
 Lighthouse
 Orochi
 Along the coast in boats
 On the river Samarga
 Anxiety
 Owl fisher
 Hunting
 Blizzard
 On mountain rivers
 Reverse pass through the Sikhote-Alin
 Again by the sea
 Three coffins
 Tornado near the mouth of the river Tumnin
 Whale-temu
 Snake wedding
 Hawk and Hare
 Fight eagle in the air
 Rookery
 Hunting for moose
 Owl nest
 Cape syurkum
 Winter hike along the river Khungari
Michail bulgakov. the heart of a dog

Mikhail bulgakov. the master and margarita

Charlotte bronte. jane eyre

F. scott fitzgerald / the great gatsby

Jerome klapka jerome / three men in a boat


 Home
     In the Sikhote-Alin (author VK Arseniev)
          Again by the sea

Again by the sea

Twenty-seventh of February, we parted with Lyumomi and in two days reached another village - Naikhin, located near the mouth of Anyuya. Here I stopped at his old friend Nicholas golda Beldy. He informed me that the message Anyuyu any day must stop, and it would be better if I go down to the Amur River Gyau, then, having gone through it to the source, crossed the river Mynymu, rise on the latter and pass through a second small Anyuy get in the countryside near the Ulema. This is - the usual way tardy Golds-sobolevschikov in the case when they have come back from the coastal region to the Amur. I could meet them on the way and use a padded their way. It should be noted that in the Ussuri region snow usually falls in the second half of winter. Council Beldy Nicholas was very reasonable, and I decided to use it.

The space between the mouth of the river Anyuya and the height to which the Trinity is the village, and all the islands adjacent to this coast, at the base of his composed of rounded river pebbles, whereas all the bank of the Amur composed of silt and sand, suggesting that entire right bank of the Amur River, which is in question here, reclaimed river Anyuem. In the recent past, it was much closer to the mouth of the village of Trinity, can see how Anyuy gradually moving direction southwest, until he came to the high banks around the village Goldsk Naikhin. Now he was bring pebbles and Amur channel Dyren. In the near future it is also doomed to extinction. Then Anyuy pave a new course somewhere near the settlement of trades and can be washed away most Torgonsky island.

Gyau River flows through one of those old duct Anyuya. It has a length of about 10 kilometers and goes back to the ridge Mynymu, which is visible from the Amur. Ridges between many villages and oxbows Anyuya covered woodland consisting of lime, elm and oak. Ridge Mynymu located towards the south-west to north-east. One end he comes to Anyuyu. From here to the north separated by a long spur that connects to the heights of the village of Trinity.

Gyau river brought us to this first spur. Following it, we were in pigweed. Judging by the vegetation, it must be swamped. Our journey lay to the south through a low saddle between the ridge and said Mynymu spur. Here for the hills nearby, flows the river itself Mynymu. Its origins are in the mountains, employees divide between it and the pool Gobilli. It flows from the northeast to the relatively narrow forested mountainous valley. One of the tributaries of it comes close to Anyuyu. They are separated only by a low hill Ambanku Hoyanbekchi. Here and there one Perevolok on which I said Nicholas Beldy.

In 1909, the old-natives have predicted an early spring. Indeed, in late February, has already started melting snow. Mountain streams at once filled with water, springtime river seemed to be at rest, but the noise from under the ice, like distant thunder. She could hear him shaking under the pressure of fast running water beneath. In some places the ice began to rise up and break off the coast, there were thawed patches everywhere. Middle of the river ice was strong, but in cases where the need for forced closer to shore, it was necessary to go with the stick in his hand. Generally River Anyui, Mynymu bad freeze in many places are open round the winter polynya. Golds explain this abundance of fish, which is supposedly a walk, breathe and the water does not freeze properly.

But once blew cold northwest wind, the ice on the river a little bit stronger. This greatly facilitated our journey.

March 11 we reached the pass at Anyuy. Here we found udeheytsev family, consisting of two men, two women and a boy of nine. This year was a lot of Anyue tigers that were extremely bold and comes close to human dwellings. Two weeks before our arrival one animal showed remarkable pragmatism. Almost every day he visited udeheytsev and often in broad daylight. Udeheytsy first urged him to leave them alone, then threatened him with spears and guns, shamans in the night and asked exuberant Atszani (host animals) withdraw "his dog" back. Nothing worked. Tiger walking on the opposite bank of the river, lay down on the ice against the tent, yawned and frightened people. Then udeheytsy realized that terrible beast voluntarily stepped down from his master, and that it is not subject to it, and therefore it should not go slaughter a serious sin to them.

One night one of the women was about to leave the tent for water. It was just at the full moon. As she opened the door she saw the striped beast quite near home. She quickly shut the door. Then one of udeheytsev did knife hole in the bark of the yurt and through the shot the tiger. The beast fell, but immediately got up and crawled across the ice of the river. The next morning he was found izdohshim about the other side. Udeheytsy covered it with snow on the sides and put two stakes with the shavings, to inform people passing, that the place is forbidden, and themselves moved slightly downstream, where I found them all assembled.

Learning of this, the next day I went to the place where he lay tiger. It was a great stalwart male, but with pale color and rare large black stripes on the back of the body. Unfortunately, it died completely hides, wool from it climbed large clumps. I wanted to take the skeleton of an animal, but my intentions are excited udeheytsev. They said that they can not do it, because they will not be plaguing other tigers who will avenge the desecration of one of their relatives. Two days later, I still went to the dead animal, but, to my regret, has not found it at all. At the spot where he lay tiger was a big gully: dark water quickly and quietly ran through the ice. This fact convinced udeheytsev that exuberant Atszani not allow blasphemy on over your dog, even if it came out of obedience.

Bye to udeheytsami, I went through to Perevolok Anyuy. That morning we had the opportunity to observe an interesting optical phenomenon. Siberians call it "the sun with ears" and say it presages frost.

At about ten in the morning, when the day-star rose over the horizon, ten degrees to the right and left of it there are two bright spots of light, and from them to the side stretch long rays, tapering to the ends. At the same time the sun came over the rainbow, the concave part of the horizon, and ends - to the zenith. The day was frosty, calm, cloudless sky, trees covered with hoarfrost strongly.

The next day, March 15, the phenomenon was repeated, but it was even more effective. Morning was a light mist, and the sky a thin web of cirrus clouds. Around the sun first appeared two concentric rainbow circle. From the top of the inner circle separated rainbow arc, also ends facing upward. This time, apart from the real sun, there were two false on both sides and one at the bottom. From the lateral light spots left and right stretched rays that are extended to as long as not connected to form all over the sky a giant circle, parallel to the horizon. Then there are additional arc, which formed a series of beautiful wreath, at the intersections of them also published a fairly bright light. Of the terms are not changed, but some of them faded, others more vivid. By noon, the sky remained alone with the outer halo achromatization. I was waiting for the snow, but it was the opposite. The sky had cleared completely of cirrus clouds. Twinkling stars at night much. Snow zanastilsya well. Several days kept quiet sunny weather.

Crossing the mountain Ambanku Hoyanbekchi, we went right to the location on the Ulema Anyue where I decided to do a day's rest and to determine the point of his astronomical distances. Spotting location was selected on the shingle, and the tent was put a little away in the woods, where it was not so windy. I did not waste any time and take advantage of the good weather, made two amendments timer and took some heights before and after the peak. During the observation tube tool in the sun could be seen three spots located diagonally in line. The largest spot was the upper, lower - the average and the smallest - the bottom. Great spot could be seen even just through the smoked glass.

The next day we were cut on a large tree shows "March 20, 1909 Astronomical point. Arsenyev."

When it was over, I made an order to prepare for a hike up the Anyuyu, but at the time the accident occurred, detaining us Ulema four more days.

The day turned out to be extremely good, it was quiet, light and moderately cold. Crisp cool air is encouraged, but not chilly, breathe easy, and the shower was fun. Until the hands were preparing for a hike, I Krylov, taking the dog Kadi, went to investigate.

In areas Ulema Anyuya entire right bank over a short distance is the lowlands, the rugged countless small creeks and oxbow lakes. Ruts, holes and ditches met us almost at every turn, they were connected to each other, come to naught, and intersect at various angles. Add to this the duck to the ground and floods disfigured trees, shrubs, growing in a mess, and blockages convicts mixed with debris, deposited here by water and you get a complete picture of flood-plain forest, which we began to bivouac.

Udeheytsy told the truth. There were so many tiger tracks that one would have thought that all tigers, how many of them are in the Ussuri region, gathered at Anyuy for wintering. However, I soon noticed that all was only two tracks: one big - old and one smaller - fresh. Then followed along the ruts and channels to either side, walked across, makes a circle and came back. At one point we came upon a very fresh spoor. Wings pulled the dog off the leash, but she threw herself forward, and a deep nose in the snow, began to sniff every blade of grass, - by which we passed. A minute went by Kady ruts again very carefully, then stopped and listened. Twice she lay on his belly, tucked under her hind legs and front paws outstretched. By the way the dog behaved, and alert ears it was evident that she smelled something. Nervous mood dog passed on to us, and I was not sure if at that moment the tiger jumped, it would shoot him calmly. Kady was hesitant to go forward, and we also froze in painful suspense. Finally, the wing is not sustained. He walked over to the dog, looked up and stroked it. She did not move. Then we both stepped over her. Kady quietly got up and trudged back. A dozen paces, Krylov forward missed the dog, but a few hundred paces she stopped again. His ears, she began looking around, and then suddenly got up and quickly ran back. Beating Krylov Kady clung tightly to my feet. I began to stroke her and felt that she was trembling.

Hence, the tiger nearby.

Curiosity and fear filled my heart. It was beating strongly, and I felt that I could hear his every stroke. Excitement and impact on breathing. We both froze in place, straining eyes and ears, but not the slightest rustle not break the deep silence of the forest. Suddenly snapped loudly in the forest frosted tree. As if an electric current pierced me from head to toe. Wings turned abruptly toward the noise, the dog started and more people began to huddle. It was some time before we realized that it was a joke frost. At this time, Kady again went forward. We followed her. She was acting very strange, went on a curve and dropped in the middle of the space, which costs spiral. This has led us to redouble attention. In the center of the circle, which we have described, was a huge poplar tree that grew in a highly inclined position. You would have thought that he was lying on the ground. Poplar snow was about Primo, sometimes pitted, and in the space between the tree and the ground could be seen something. For a while we stood in indecision. Under foot I got something, I reached down and picked up a frozen tuber roots of ferns. Wings took it and threw it toward the poplar, but it was still quiet. Then we went to the tree bolder.

It was a tiger's lair. Topol was hollow throughout, with the open part of the hollow facing the earth. Snow under it was not at all, and dry grass strongly flattened circle and in particular in the lair strewn lot peregryzennyh bones. It was evident that the striped predator long used this lair. On a nearby tree at a height that I barely got the end of a gun, I could see a series of longitudinal scratches. I paid attention to Krylov skinned bark. I vividly imagine the scene like a tiger out of the den, yawned, looked right and left, then got up on his hind legs, put his front in the tree and, arching his back, began to spread his claws.

In the snow near the poplar had a lot of old tracks - big and small. So, in the lair nestled first one tiger, and then he was gone, and its place is taken by another animal, younger. It was not known just left myself a tiger hunt or we scared him. Perhaps he left himself, otherwise he would not have missed the occasion to profit dog that she came to his home.

Looking around the tracks, Krylov retired a little, and I was left in place, and the longer I was alone, the worse seemed to me the whole situation. I felt that terrible beast returns to his lair, and seeing people around him, first stops and looks puzzled, then crawling on his belly that's it for this very pothole that is behind. Suddenly, a noise made me jump and turn around. The next tree sat a raven. A minute later he returned the wings, and we went back on their footsteps.

Above the gloomy forest lies a pale green-blue sky, painted in the west in the yellow and orange colors, as if the circle has become even quieter, a little white snow turned pink, it was much colder.

Soon we got to the channel, but mistakenly went the wrong way and came to Anyuy half a kilometer above the place where we camped bivouac.

In my heart I immediately felt better: wood - a treacherous, full of dangers - is left behind, and in front stretched a broad band of the river, covered with snow. Sunset has already started to get dark, somewhere in the sky the first stars began to blink, to replace the tired day solemnly down to the ground overnight.

After half an hour we came to the camp. It was all right: a tent set of pipes it with smoke flying sparks, and next to her on a bed of pine needles, dry grass resting sled dogs, another porter was preparing dinner.

In the evening I went into diaries, then made the necessary orders and went to bed early.

During the night I woke up and opened his eyes, saw the stars shining through the windows of the tent. Silence reigned around broken someone's light snoring so they could hear the grumbling nepoladivshie two dogs together, then they seem to have dispersed, and then again Calm settles. Five minutes later, I fell asleep again. Suddenly I was awakened by a loud noise. I jumped to my feet, my companions woke up and looked around bewildered. Outside could be heard yelping, barking and howling. Like mad dogs straining at their leashes. Marunich, Glegola and vortices hastily put on his boots and ran out of the tent. I also began to dress hurriedly.

The darkness was apparent on the horizon - the day started dawn. The sky moving large clouds, and behind them shone rare pale stars, the earth was still shrouded in darkness, but now you can review all the items, snow-white expanse of the river, steam over sagebrush and trees, dressed in winter attire seemed to dream and could not wake up from the scope of their torpor.

The first thing that struck me, - a dog. They messed up with belts, huddled together and nervously looking around. Some of them have broken loose and, tails between their legs, running around the bivouac. What happened? Why such a stir?

- It must have come tiger - Krylov said, released at the time of the tent.

I told the dog to put in place to build a fire and warm tea.

- My dog ??is not! - Suddenly shouted Marunich not his voice.

Krylov we approached him and then the snow saw drops of blood and fresh tiger tracks. Now all became clear. Striped predator knocked down and took the dog. All arrows ran to Marunich, and I took the gun and went to the nearest intelligence.

Remembering the lessons of Dersu, I began to scrutinize the signs on them and easily reconstruct the accident. Tiger was on the river along our coast. Seeing the camp, he stood up for the mess, stuck on the shingle at the turn of the river shallows. Here he stood a long time, then lay on his stomach, stretching out his legs. He then climbed over fallen trees and potholes, which is parallel to the shore, crept to the bivouac. This pitfall of its steep edge nearer to the place where the dog was tied. Jump out of the ambush, grab one of the dogs, and again hidden in the bush - it was for him a matter of one minute.

Finally, the dogs were quiet. Then they were replaced by the arrow. So we did.


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