The twentieth of January, we left and went to Samarga Sikhote-Alin, the key Solola, which has a general direction from north-west to south-east and in the lower part of its proceeds to a completely flat terrain, in a thick pine forest of poor quality. Many trees were standing in an inclined position, and had dead tops were decorated bearded lichen. About four kilometers from Samarga starts rise, slowly at first, and then cool. At the pass, the height of which was equal to 910 meters above sea level, there was a little wooden joss-house, set, Chinese buyers of furs in honor of "the spirit of the old road" (Lao ba-tou). The eastern slope of the Sikhote-Alin with all rivers flowing into the sea, called Ada udeheytsy Namuzani, and the western slope of the basin tributaries Ussuri - Ada Tsazani. Consistent with this terminology and the native population of the coastal area called himself Ude Namuka, in contrast to people living along the rivers Iman, bikini, choir, and Anyuyu Khungari, bearing the name of a Ude Dezaha.
The western slope of the Sikhote-Alin much of the eastern position. Descending from the pass, we came to some sort of a small river that flowed to the north-west, on the sides of towering small hills covered exclusively-pine forest. As the distance from the watershed mountains become higher. Eight kilometers from the pass to the left went even a creek. Here we spent the night. The next day about ten miles we reached the river Chuina that flows here from the south to the north. Now shale remained behind, and first appeared fine-grained sandstone, quartzite and then some metamorphic rocks related, apparently, to azoicheskoy shale group.
More on the river from Samarga udeheytsev I heard that on the river Chuine a tree that has grown off the ground, and another living tree that stands at the root. Now our guide again repeated the same thing. I asked him to show me a miracle and he became a closer look around. The valley is covered with pine forest Chuina much better than at the Sikhote-Alin. Near the river is abundant alder grow quite large sizes and willow, having a form of front-line of trees, but with small branches almost from the root. Increase took place larch, spruce and fir and retreated to the tops of mountains.
At last I saw the wonderful tree, which is so much talked udeheytsy. It was a poplar to the large influx from the north side, about ten meters above the ground. Top in the flood of natural depression was filled with garbage and muck different foliage. Accidentally hit him seed spill out of fir cones. This deepened and grew slender Christmas tree in the meter value.
Chuin river some time (about 15 kilometers) flows parallel to the Sikhote-Alin, in the longitudinal valley and then turns to the west. At this point, it passes between two rocky hills, forming a sort of ravine. Valley becomes more pronounced Chuina denudation character: wide lowlands interspersed with occasional hills that are staggered approach to the river is the one, then the other. Rock samples collected by me in the path from the source to the mouth of the river Chuina, are located in the following order: first come fillitovy and chert, then sandstone vitrofir, Druze and small crystals of hornblende porphyry.
The last five kilometers of the river flows through a wooded Chuin plain and meets the great river Khor.
Source of the river Howrah are away in the mountains. From the Sikhote-Alin mountain they separate special fold and the upper reaches of the river Anyuya. Chorus runs in a curve from the north-east to the west so that the convex part of its arch is oriented to the south. Tributary of the Ussuri, it takes the most extensive pool, separated from the Bikin River Ridge sinc. During his fast. With its clear water Khor with such impetuosity included in the Ussuri River, muddy water that pushes the latter to the opposite shore. The mouth of Horus under 47 ° 49 'north latitude and 134 ° 49' East of Greenwich.
Largest tributary of the river Howrah is Souk share. It has a length of about 200 km and flows to the west-northwest. On it is the way through the Sikhote-Alin Kukcha River, which flows into Samarga, as mentioned above. Near the mouth of Sukpai isstari udeheytsy live. This is the upper camp, which has a venerable old. Sometimes udeheytsy up the choir above and reach the river Sor, on which lies the path to the river Tompasu, Anyuya flow, but do not stay there a long time and always in a hurry to get back to Sukpai. From the mouth of the last chorus is flowing to the south-west. On this part of the right bank of its mountainous. Here we can mention only two of the stream - Bukgoe and Cada, and on the left side - Tyngtyma creek and around the hill of the same name, then key Tanda and small river Chuck. Next Choir makes a slight curve. After Chuck yurts, located near the mouth of the river of the same name, with the right description of the terrain is in the order of a small river colas, then the valley narrows. About key Chzhuacha Choir is in the cheeks. Until key Aktogay right bank upland and rocky. Then for 25 miles Chora valley narrows considerably and becomes fractured. Then one or the other side the river props rocky hills. After the river flows into the stream right Aktogay Tulami and six kilometers away Chorus is again in the cheeks and makes a long narrow loop. There were yurts Chzhonniga and next to them the key, which bears the same name. Downstream from the right side - a rocky hill Billy and key Kimmy. Then again the valley widens and the river rushes to the southwest, taking a two key - Bionko and Nameless. To get acquainted with the geography of the left bank, the reader needs to sail again the choir, from the river Chuck. On the right are the two keys and Soi Chzhulma Adani, then in the early bottleneck Yasyga Valley mountain stream and river against Kimmy - Key Kikolyu. Five kilometers from the turn of Chora in the south-west there is a dangerous crossing, and below - a big rock right in the middle
of the river. The entire left side of the valley is mountainous, with the crest of the ridge, which borders the valley on the left side, decorated with rocks Yaagu. This is where the river flows into the Khor Kapan, but against it - a key Bionko, mentioned above. Even lower, about ten kilometers, Chorus takes a large influx Katen. At the mouth of the latter is divided into two branches, of which the western, the longest, and runs parallel to the choir is called ducts Hade. Not far from the south of the ducts suitable small river Olo. As if following the direction indicated by it, Chorus makes a turn and also flows to the north for 10-12 kilometers. With steep slopes of the left bank runs Pyang Kulukchi key. Then the mountains far in the direction of moving away, and here is hilly right bank and the left - Plain. Khor river becomes wider, deeper, and is divided into channels. On the right side in the fall Chorus key Chzhoo Dukchi Xilin River and then river Ufa, Keys imago Shikina, Samagda and Young. There is also a flow Yumgma, just below it - the second danger threshold, and even lower - River Dungu. Joss-house once stood here, and was the last Chinese village, which consisted of two huts. High rocky hills cut through beds of Anba key Dalma, Unguni, Dyshma, Sikchi and Coke. Here hills end, Chorus goes to the plains, with the direction of flow to the north. Following the accepted rule us, let us first rivers, streams and places to the right, and then - on the left side. At Mount Anba from Chora removed one of the biggest channels. Once again it is connected with the river below, twelve kilometers. Here begins the pillars forest managers often meet with different signs and winter quarters, built of logs. Passing through the ducts and Buo Chzhafkdi, Chorus makes a sharp turn to the west. Here, in a corner on the right hand spread wide 60 Korean huts, bearing the name of the village of Alexander Michael. Here also is the Perevolok (Tabani, Tabando) for Kia, which is used udeheytsy, heading toward Khabarovsk. Judging
by the fact that the valley is cut up many cues ducts, older women generally judge from the traces left by the water here, it is evident that the river in the recent past has been the bed of Chora.
The reader is left to follow, just the left edge of the Chora Valley from the place where the chorus came out of the mountains to the plains. First choir is divided into two channels, and the left is called Chzhigdyma below - two ducts Big and Small and Bouley Mogochzhi yurt near the mouth of the river Muten. Here the last time the chorus fit lonely hills Nita, Funea Perevoloka below, which are remnants of the higher mountains, often blurred, partly sunk in the thick potretichnyh formations.
After Perevoloka Choir flows to the west, what is the direction and stores up to its confluence with the River Ussuri.
A bird's-eye basin Chora is wooded outskirts. The most valuable species is cedar. He takes all the high places along the middle to Chuina. On shady slopes grow spruce, fir, birch, stone, and in the sun - linden, oak, maple and poplar. Down near the river - flood-plain forests with a variety of coniferous and deciduous species dominated by ash, elm, poplar, cherry and willow. Last form dense thickets on the pebbly shoals and islands.
From the mouth of the river Chuina we went up the choir and after some five or six miles to the river came Salma (clear), which flows into it from the right side. In these places, Chora valley bordered by hills and narrow, having a shape that we can just say that they are made up of rocks, volcanic eruptions. Refer to the diaries, I found them under the corresponding numbers gray granite.
Our journey along the river was Salma. It has a length of about 35 kilometers, and its origins in the pass between the river and Chorus Mukhen flowing into the Amur. The first five kilometers it flows from north to south, then twenty kilometers to the east-west direction, and is very winding and breaks into small grooves, are inaccessible even to the flat-bottomed native boats. The last ten kilometers Salma again inclined to the south and flows into the two arms of the choir. Salma valley. excessively broad. Gore can not see the forest at all. However, a couple of times they come to the river gentle slopes.
Birch forest and deciduous. Closer to the pass began to see Mari wetlands covered dead larch.
Two days later we went to the pass. River, which served as a guiding light to us, has become very small. She wrapped right to the north, then to the north-west and began to climb. The lift was always uniformly flat and just beneath the ridge became steeper. On the pass was a small joss-house, built of thin spruce logs and decorated with red cloth with Chinese hieroglyphic signs. At the top of the ridge forest was much thicker. Beautiful view have thick spruce, decorated white hoods.
We had to take a break. While my fellow smokers, I measured the altitude of the pass and defined it in the 604 meters.
The descent from the watershed to the valley Sadomabirani was much steeper than the rise to the east. The road trodden sobolevschikami and served us a thread was well rolled, and this will greatly facilitate our progress with cargo sleds.
For these newcomers, what are the arrows to ski lift up the mountain was much easier than the descent from her. To the untrained athlete, even a small downward bias is always a cause of the fall. But we are a big and steep descent to the same sled dogs were loaded, which pressed forward from behind and developed more and more and more speed. Arrows were stranded. Ussuri Cossacks made fun of them and give advice on how to be. My companions unharnessed dog shot ski, sled forward and admitted, keeping them on the ropes, were gently descend. So did all but Marunich. He decided to descend on skis, and the dogs are not pulled forward, he tied them behind in the hope that they hold up the sled, pushing his paws in the snow. But the opposite happened. At the time I was at the bottom of the pass, when he heard behind him all the approaching noise. I looked around and saw Marunich. Standing on skis and with all his strength resting on her tongue sledge, he rushed headlong down. Dogs, instead of following the sled, ran it on the right and left, and straining every nerve, rushed forward at full length and thus further increase the speed. Marunich raced down faster and faster, shouting, and it was impossible to make out whether he screamed with fright, and asked whether the aid or warned that going ahead and avoided giving him the way.
I barely had time to jump aside as he rushed past me like a whirlwind, and after that, just from the explosion rose up a great cloud of snow dust. Marunich with sled crashed into a small fir trees, dogs broke away and ran on. This descent could end very badly. Cossacks threw their sledges and, deftly maneuvering between trees Marunich hurried to the rescue. When I came to the accident, I saw the sled, lying in the snow up runners, and get out from under her hapless Marunich. He was all in the snow, his face expressed perplexity. It was evident that he did not know how I got into this situation. He fingered his head, his hands, as if to make sure their safe. At this time, other people came running and surrounded him. With laughter they compared themselves with freight trains, which stood on a siding to make way for an express train. Marunich did not answer them. He wiped his wet face arm and tried to pull the sled out of the snow. At this time, his dog came back. Considering them the main culprits of his fall, Marunich grabbed a stick and rushed after them, but became entangled in the harness, and again fell into the snow. Arrows and Cossacks again sunk with laughter. They helped him to his feet, caught the dogs and then went for their sleds, and I, the Gold stocks and Zhang Bao went on.
The pass Sadomabirani river starts small streams flowing to the west for five miles. Here it merges with another of the same mountain stream, running from the north-east. Just at the junction of their tent and we found near her family udeheytsev. They laid the sledge and, apparently, going somewhere migrate at all. Asked who they are and where to gather, the man replied that he was from the river Howrah, his name is kind of Mion Kimunku that he lives on the river and Chorus arrived here on sobolevanie but shabby tigers he has almost all dogs. So he decided to give them a place and go back to the river Khor. I said udeheytsu that I will spend the night here, and asked him to stay with us to show us the place tomorrow, where most are held striped animals that survived it with Sadomabirani.
The woman heard that her husband had agreed to my request, quite calmly and silently began to disassemble the sled and pull the property back to the yurt. When they reached the Cossacks, it was just time to stop at the camp. They all went to work: some put up a tent and build furnace pipes, others cut firewood, others cut grass for bedding, Marunich preparing dinner. When it began to get dark, I had to take all the dogs into the room and the whole night in the bivouac fires of support, and he went along with the tent Kosyakova udeheytsa. Mion was a man of thirty-eight, short, poorly dressed. Weathered and tanned his face and calloused hands spoke of how hard work he had to earn his livelihood. In the eyes of his wife - resignation.
I began to question him about the river, which we got. He told me that all the right tributaries of the upper Mukhen considered good hunting spot. Mountains between Nefiktsoy and Mack were severely damaged, resulting in a lot of rocks are formed with bizarre forms. This is the tiger a place in the province. Wherever they go, there is always returned. There they take and cubs. All hunters know this, because no one wants sobolevat about forbidden rock. Tiger, who had got into the habit to carry dogs, came from there. This is a very saucy beast. He first visited udeheytsa night, and got into the habit now walk in the afternoon. No later than this morning, he took another dog - the fifth in a row. When udeheets cried the tiger, he bristled and showed his teeth, roared and began to beat his tail on the side. From this udeheets concluded that he and his family in mortal danger. He decided to go back to the chorus, leaving the puppy at the disposal of the royal beast.
It was dusk when I got out of the tent and went to his camp.
After dinner, I returned to the tent udeheytsa. His kids were in bed, his wife cooking dinner, and he corrected a ski straps. I sat down next to the fire and began to question him about the terrible rocks Mack. Mion silent for a while, and I thought that he did not want to talk about it, thinking that I want to take it to the wires.
- Where does evil. Our people are never going to go no - finally he said.