Magazine for tourists

Table of contents

Kinds of tourism

Excursion (author BV Emelyanov)


1. Fundamentals Excursion

2. guided technique

3. Professional skills guide

Tunisia (author Danielle shetar Friedrich chum)

In the Sikhote-Alin (author VK Arseniev)

 From the author
 Cupid in the lower
 Up anyuyu
 Along the coast in boats
 On the river Samarga
 Owl fisher
 On mountain rivers
 Reverse pass through the Sikhote-Alin
 Again by the sea
 Three coffins
 Tornado near the mouth of the river Tumnin
 Snake wedding
 Hawk and Hare
 Fight eagle in the air
 Hunting for moose
 Owl nest
 Cape syurkum
 Winter hike along the river Khungari
Michail bulgakov. the heart of a dog

Mikhail bulgakov. the master and margarita

Charlotte bronte. jane eyre

F. scott fitzgerald / the great gatsby

Jerome klapka jerome / three men in a boat

     In the Sikhote-Alin (author VK Arseniev)
          Cape syurkum

Cape Syurkum

Auca shore of the bay makes a bend to the north-east. In the projection, if you look at it from a bird's eye, he is like a concave bow. The northeastern part of his outstanding called Cape Syurkum. This beach - even as a wall 200 meters high, rocky and steep - stretches for 48 kilometers. At the foot of it is completely absent reclaimed the surf, cliffs break off steeply into the sea. All the way from the bay up to the Auca Cape Syurkum nowhere is there a place where I could moor a boat and where we could go ashore and find protection from the weather.

Back in the old Imperial Harbor Oroch IM Bizanka told me about Cape Syurkum have to be very careful and to navigate to choose a calm day. The same mandate given twice elderly population date accompanied me natives. So, when you come to the Bay of Auca, I gave Orochi Kopinke and Namuka themselves to navigate and set the time for the long voyage by boat. They always looked to the sea, looking at the sky and on the movement of the clouds tried to guess the weather.

The last days of the sea was surprisingly calm. If it were not sigh elusive to the eye, but perceptible in a boat large swell, it could be mistaken for a heavy molten metal, frozen ground and without measure in length, and with no end in width, stretching into the bluish distance where crowded with white cumulus clouds rounded edges. Apparently, in the atmosphere of a balance, because light clouds on the horizon during the day did not change their shape and all the time stood still. The sun reflected in the smooth surface of the water, floated on the sea swell and blind eyes. But here's the wave passes, the reflection was lost, and it seemed like the heavenly body again plunged "into the bosom of the glass of water."

Such silence embarrassed Orochi. Them it seemed treacherous, even at a time when the treacherous sea caresses, have to wait for every minute strike. Enough the slightest change in the atmosphere, to bring it into a violent state.

Two days passed, and this second day of June, after the usual inspection of the sea and sky Orochi announced that it is possible to go.

Arrows and Cossacks so adapted to discharge to the coast and to the loading of the property in the boat, that the order to assemble in a way no one by surprise. Twenty minutes later we were sailing along the coast.

The sea was quiet. On the fixed and smooth surface it was not the slightest ripple. The sun was in the sky and generously has sent its rays to warm and dry from recent rains soaked the ground and would boost the whole vegetable world - from the mighty poplars to insignificant blade of grass.

We stayed on the shore at a distance, so you can immediately observe the entire thickness of rocks and veins that cut through them. Around noon, our boat moved away from the river for six miles Auca. At this time, sitting at the oars Kopinka Namuka said something at the helm. He turned quickly. Kopinka stopped rowing and asked his friend, is not it better to come back early.

I looked in that direction and saw the back, where the sky touches the sea, dark line that stretched across the horizon. This dark band presaged wind. Believing it to be a small local breeze Namuka signaled sail on.

After ten minutes, the strip on the horizon has expanded and darkened. Simultaneously, another to the band appeared on our right. Orochi took counsel and decided to swim back, sticking closer to shore, but at this time a dark band moved us closer. Suddenly there was the wind, and the sea immediately zapenilos and buzzing. In an instant, smooth water was covered with crisp, quickly turned into the excitement. Fearing that we are not raking in the wind, the Orochi decided to go further and become Syurkumu set sail, with which they expected to soon reach the bay Stark.

Sail on a native boat is simply a cloth tent, tied the corners of the two poles, set obliquely cross. For the other two corners are usually tied rope, the ends of which should be in the hands of the steering.

Kopinka took control sail, I took his place at the oars, and Namuka left handlebar. On our sail boat went faster: The wind was steady, but it significantly increased. The sea has changed its face beyond recognition. Half an hour ago, it was perfectly calm and smooth, and now rebelled and loudly expressed their anger.

Sky has also changed. It has become whitish. Somewhere once appeared thin layered clouds. Through them I could see another disk of the sun, but not as clear as before. On it you can see with the naked eye. The clouds were gathering fast. The second time I looked at the sky, the sun's location identified only vaguely vague bright spot. Here and there on the shore there were patches of fog. Soon began drizzling rain.

Wave spurred our utluyu boat heaving it up and tilts it to one, then the other side. She then rushed forward, fell heavily in the intervals between waves and buried his nose in the water. The harder the wind blew, the more quickly ran our boat, but at the same time became more difficult to swim. Menacing trees, decorated with white crests, rose around. They seemed to have fled vperegonki, then turned over and turned into a hissing foam.

Heavily loaded boat sitting in deep water, and the waves began sweeping across its sides. From time to time we pump water birch bark bucket, which Orochi prudently brought with them. They always examined the coast, hoping to find at least some shelter from the elements, but in vain. Sullen high cliffs falling quite steeply into the water. Waves with rage and they hit the white fountains flew up. Stick to the shore was impossible to go to sea - not, of going back there was no question. We had only one thing - to go with the wind and bend all their efforts as soon as possible and around Cape Syurkum enter the bay Stark. Nobody is sitting on his hands: one shift rowed, the other pump water. In the course were put both the kettle and pot. So we held out for two more hours, finally, it became clear that safely reach Cape Syurkum we fail. The wind is very zasvezhel and strongly raging sea. Waves with relentless persistence like going on the attack in one direction. They are catching up and filled the boat to feed her. Now everything depended on the steering. Namuka followed the boat with excitement and Kopinka not take his eyes off the sail, then pulling one way, then the other giving. All their attention was focused on how to prevent simultaneous tilt the boat under sail in the wind pressure and stress, a large wave on the same side. "Do we not find some angle near the shore, which would give us at least a temporary shelter?" - I thought, with fear and longing glance at the towering cliffs.

Namuka suddenly stood up and carefully examining the beach, took counsel with Kopinkoy. According to excerpts of their sentences, I realized that they had found a place to take shelter from the weather. Kopinka nodded. Namuka immediately fell on the steering wheel and the boat was approaching the coast. Here, the sea breaking even more. Demolition waves encounter with the waves, going with the wind, and created a crush. The surf was so loud that we could not hear each other and explains more gestures. The rhythmic rocking became confused, once we entered into the whirlpool of foam, splashes and sprays. I could hardly recognize. From the rocky shore at an angle in relation to him at fifty degrees nominated in the big sea dyke. It was a giant basalt lived. Rocks through which it passes, activity of sea water and atmospheric agents have long been destroyed and collapsed. Decomposition of columnar basalt was: why had the look dyke stacks of firewood. At sea, he served twenty meters, and at the adjoining part of the coast as it formed a dihedral angle. By shouts Kopinki sail was lowered in an instant. Several blows paddle - boat and hid behind the wall of basalt. Thus we are in a relatively quiet pond.

In the middle of our shelter from twenty centimeters of water rose a flat rock area of ??eight square meters. Its surface was covered with brown algae and shells. At other times, I would not conclude in favor of our shelters, but we were all glad to find that the "angle", dreamed about in the open sea, and which, as we seemed to be able to protect us.

Namuka pulled the boat to the rock, and we immediately went to him. All at once cheered. Vortices and wing became pump water, and I began to look Oroch shore, which we landed. Our shelter represented a trap from which you can get only by water. Basalt lived rested against the cliff. Kakih-nibud projections or ledges on which to climb up, was not.

Around us rose gigantic cliffs, steep, and in places quite steeply break off into the sea. All of our salvation was in the boat, so for her it was necessary first of all to take care.

Meanwhile, the storm broke in earnest. Waves crash rammed dyke outside, but he steadfastly withstood the onslaught of the sea.

Wind thrown over him spray. Foamed waves, fragmented and weakened with rumbling came over basalt wall and flung on the rocks, to which was attached a boat. Fearing for the fate of our cargo, I had put the boat in the very depths of bays.

When the water was pumped out of the boat, we moved all of our belongings and again put him better, covered with canvas top and tying ropes tighter. Then we ate a bit, dressed warmly, took to their seats in the boat and waited for the wind died down and the sea calmed down.

However, the storm intensified and by six o'clock in the afternoon turned into a real storm.

At dusk Orochi made another discovery that their highly excited. Tide, during which water is rising up to two meters. Sure, a flat stone, for which we were to be flooded. This would be all right, but the trouble is that the wind changed direction and drove waves right in the corner, which gave us shelter from the weather. Tidal waves are increasingly looked at our shelter and began to beat a boat on the rocks. It became clear that if we do not go out to sea, then it will be too late. It is understood that each of us. We ourselves somehow be saved, select the dike, even save the property, but the boat is bound to die, and then we are left only one way as a sea bathing swimmers. Tarry was not. If by agreement, all took to the oars. At this time in the cove and became a big wave washed over a flat rock. Orochi advantage of the lull, and brought the boat for Dyke. New wave caught her like a light feather and crest made for breakers. Wind whipped in the face of cold frost. The boat lurched heavily - was the second big wave, then a third.

Breakers are over. Orochi quickly raised the sail. Like a wounded bird, carried away by a strong wind, ran our boat along the shore.

Twilight quickly down to the ground. The sea was something incredible. It was impossible to consider where the water ends and where the sky begins. The impending night, dark sky, rain drizzled with frost, fog - all mixed up in the general chaos. Terrible waves rose and front and rear. They come suddenly and just as suddenly disappeared, in their place appeared a deep depression, and it seemed as if the boat is heading for the abyss.

Despite the increased pumping, the water in the boat is not decreased. The result of hard work of two people at once reduced to zero a surge wave. Soon our clothes soaked through. I was in a state of oblivion. Sometimes through the howling wind and the ominous sound of the waves, I heard my neighbor's teeth chattered. I myself was shaking like a fever. Occasionally break through the fog ahead could see some big dark mass. It seemed a huge monster that climbed into the sea, immersed in water up to his chin, and pouted about to publish a terrible roar. It was a cape Syurkum.

If we are able to go around it - we are saved, but this coveted cape was far away. The dark night has descended to earth, and distraught ocean into a deep gloom. Follow the excitement became impossible. All people have fallen into some sort of apathy, and it was worse than tired, it was a complete indifference, indifference to their plight. It is dangerous at such a time a man is convinced that he is dead - then he finally died.

I realized that we should encourage people somehow. The arrows and the Cossacks were rowed facing aft. I have used this, and collecting all the forces of light and shouted:

- Brothers, the worst is behind us, the danger had passed. Cape Syurkum very close. Nava!

I deliberately made the cheerful face and took off his cap and waved it. This maneuver reached the goal. My companions paddled vigorously. The boat went faster. Now the monster was not visible. Was heard only as the waves broke with a crash on the shore. Syurkum silently endured their attacks. Wave furiously retreated to gather strength again attacked. Wind echoed his sinister howling.

Similarly a small splinter, the boat of our rushing furious waves. At times it seemed that she rushes forward, if it stands still. Became dark. With difficulty could consider what is being done there. Like an automaton, without realizing, I pump water out of the boat and a little worried about the fact that it does not fall off.

Orochi silent. Were they in the same condition as we all, or save more self-control, I can not say.

- Lord, if only we get to Cape - suddenly I heard a whisper behind at home.

- Syurkum far no - suddenly said Namuka.

These words all cheered, because it was true.

At that moment a huge wave overtook the boat at once, and the sides and rear, and filled it with water to almost half.

- Soon Drill! - Shouted furiously Kopinka.

Presentiment of imminent danger, and the main thing that made people cry shake off apathy. They paddled vigorously, and I and another one with renewed energy began to cast boiler water. Little by little, the boat began to float again.

- Drill quick! - Shouted again Namuka.

So far cape, here we are with them and drew level, but then we had another terrible ordeal. Cape nominated far out to sea, the wind here has developed a very great excitement. It was the most dangerous place. A quarter of an hour, but these were just a quarter of an hour, from which one can lose one's mind. Suddenly, a huge wave, like a strange creature living with a white mane, horrible in appearance and size, immediately rose from the side. Like a feather tossed the boat up. Wave disappeared, and we flew headlong down.

- Hold on! - Shouted Namuka, and after that boat again filled to more than half. Water in it was so great that it could pump out without looking.


- It is necessary to rock, hard rock should be! - I shouted to his companions - otherwise we are lost!


Rowers, who sat near me, left paddle and also started something to pump water. For convenience, I went down to the bottom of the boat right on his knees and began to work quickly boiler. I did not notice fatigue, chills, back pain, and worked feverishly, fearing to lose at least one minute.

- Aya-la bi - I heard Kopinki, meaning "very good."

Possessed an incredible burst of energy in people. Boat again rose to the surface of the sea.

Excitement was weaker - we rounded the cape and bay entrance Stark. For ten minutes we sailed under sail and oars worked. Although the wind was blowing with the same force and was a fine frequent rain, but here it seemed good. We blessed fate for salvation. Behind came the terrible roar of the surf. Suddenly the left of us emerged from the darkness of some great dark mass, and after that something long whitish swept over our heads and knocked sail.

- What is it? - Involuntarily heard several voices.

Namuka keep the boat and began to take a cautious approach to the unknown object. It was a schooner. I ordered the lamp to light. Uneven tremulous light illuminated the vessel lying on its side, half-submerged by water. One mast schooner was broken, the other intact. It was she who brought down our sail. Scraps gear part lay on the deck, part hanging in the water. Apparently, the schooner lay aground. Small waves splash on the deck of her. We went around the circle and the schooner again came to the mast. At this time, the flashlight beam lit up her end. Then I saw a small animal with a long thin tail. It must have been a rat. She tried to jump into the boat, but missed and hit the water. Glegola shooter to hit her with an oar, but also missed.

- Come on, - said Nozdrin - you forgot that he had just nearly drowned in the sea.

However, the cold made itself felt. We went ahead and did not have time to do a dozen strokes oars, came close to the sand spit. Waves rushing down on sloping bank and silently retreated.

The two got out of hand over the side of the boat and went straight to the water, then they dragged the boat on hand, making it all the water run off the stern.

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