Like huge nests clinging fortress Tunisian Highlanders to the heights and slopes of the mountain range Dahar and located to its south ridge Jebel Abiod. The route allows you to get acquainted with the harsh and provides reliable protection of the architecture of these buildings, located in the mountains and deserts. Tour by car will take about three days, and public transport is available to get only to Ksara Medenine and Tataouine. In the dry season on the routes in the southern part of the route (Jabal Abiod) it is possible to drive a car. Until some Ksara have to climb very high. On examination, old abandoned castles need good shoes and a flashlight.
The starting point of the route is opyattaki Djerba (with 72). On the mainland, the journey begins from the city of Medenine (Medenin; 18,000 inhab.), 128 km. The initial value of the complex, which consists of 6,000 grain storage, in our time can hardly be estimated. Ruins of the granaries - gorf - have been restored, and now they are placed souvenir shops.
Highway S114, leading to the first of Medenine Dahar plateau, winds along Ueda El Halluf bypassing small plantations and fields are processed by the method of "Jessore" (p. 84). At higher elevations are barely distinguishable ruins abandoned Ksara, but the biggest granary, 162 km ** Ksar El Halluf (Ksar el - Hallouf), is in surprisingly good condition.
Nowadays gorfa can serve unpretentious hotel, the proud owner who readily still working maslodavilnye press or to look into the mosque at Ksar. A few kilometers dirt road switches back to the asphalt road and parallel to the mountain range to the south Dahar. Ksar Hadad (Ksar Hadada) 193 km, is located in a not so picturesque as El Halluf, but it was rebuilt at the hotel.
In one of the valleys on the route is the town Gomrassen (Ghomrassen; zhit 5000), 198 km. On the slopes of the mountains that surround this town, you can see the first cave dwellings, carved into a mountain in the horizontal direction. This is another "urban planning" specialty highlanders living in Dahar. Often the entrance to the cave is a small walled courtyard. Room, carved into soft rocks next to each other, serve as bedrooms and storage for various supplies. Some homes are connected by underground tunnels from the fortress standing over them, in which their inhabitants can move quietly in the raid enemy.
After Gomrassena diverted from the highway asphalt road leading to Germesse (Guermessa), 20 km there and back. This cave village, as in Chenin, located on either side of the saddle, topped with a small mosque. Germessu tourists visit less often, more commonly known as Chenin them, despite all the difficulties, the people Germessy prodoldayut stubbornly cling to their native land.
Highway C207 gradually descends to the plateau Dzheffara (Djef fara), after which when it swept the most significant for the history of Tunisian wave conquests (the invasion of the Arabs under the command Okba ibn Nafi), resulting in the XI century. BC nomadic Beni Beni and Hillal Sulayn moved north. Dzheffaru can be compared with the corridor leading from the coast through the Great Sirte Tunisian Sahel steppe to the west the corridor limit Dahar mountains. Here have long gone Native Barbary, fleeing attacks or extort tribute, mainly from Arab herders who roamed with their herds on pastures Dzheffara.
Before Tataouine highway branches off to the right of the road to one of the most beautiful cave villages Tunisia ** Chenin (Chenini), 258 km. As Germessa, Chenin is located on the slopes of the two mountains. On the saddle between the two halves of the village stands a simple white mosque on architecture.
At the entrance to the village of tourists waiting for guides who can demonstrate again maslodavilny press or to show the way to the mosque.
Relais de Chenini,
simple roadside restaurant. About
On the other side of the mountain are seven giant mosque and several completely abandoned cave dwellings - the last remnants of one of the most ancient settlements. Chenin - a truly magical place, for here lie the remains of the seven giants (originally - the persecuted Christians) that are protected by the cave arches fell into lethargy, and their bodies gradually took gigantic proportions. Ridding poor could get only by accepting Islam. Their gigantic cave tombs surround the mosque, on the inner walls of which is visible Berber point pattern.
Tataouine (Tataouine; 7000 inhab.), 277 km, - founded by the French town, which was the notorious «Bat d'Af» (African battalion of the Foreign Legion). The streets of this usually unremarkable village animated when on Monday and Thursday come to the market in the local area farmers. Ksara festival, which is arranged at the end of January, can form an impression about crafts and folklore of the region.
Tataouine advisable to start from a circular route on Ksara Jebel Abioda.
Bus: Medenine, Gomrassen, Gabes, Sfax, Tunisia.
The nearby Ksar only accessible by taxi.
Located at the entrance to the highway RN19,
tel.: 05/86 01 02.
The new middle class hotel with a traditional interior, attentive service and can organize excursions to okrestnostyam.OOO
Located in the center of town,
tel.: 05/86 00 09.
Conditions for unpretentious tourists restaurant. About
In hotels and restaurants for the market.
In the mountains south of Tataouine Jebel Abiod records many Ksara and cave settlements, well preserved and completely destroyed. Tours can create the impression of a closed, poor living mountaineers tribe Jabaliya and at the same time enjoy the beautiful scenery.
South of Tataouine Pull off the RN19 highway and follow the narrow road towards Beni Barka. Soon after, the road branched off another, which lead directly to the village ** Beni Barka (Beni-Barka). To a group of giant Ksara reachable in just a few minutes. It is also worth to look at the mountain Abiod, rising in the south.
From the main road just before the village of Matsuri (Matzouria) road goes to the so-called matsuriyskim Ksara. This road, passing through a very scenic area, is itself worthy. Three Ksara: ElAvidit, * El-Khadim and Dagagra - belonging to a powerful Berber tribe zenata. Ksar el-Khadim refers to the XI century. and, apparently, was built during the reign of the tribe of Beni Hillal. The only visible entrance gates are Ksar height of 5 meters, but there are also underground tunnels, which you can get to the cave dwellings. Ksar Dagagra also a remarkably well-preserved building, which today can be seen barrels for oil and grain storage. Immediately after this Ksar road again brings up the road, which connects to the village Tamelest (Tamelest). After another 1.5 km you can take a half-hour journey to * Ksar Cedras (Ksar Sedra), 303 km, with paved into the rock passages and caves, which can be tested, with a flashlight. It should also admire the fantastic scenery from the top of a steep mountain. The next landmark on the route is ** Ksar Ouled-Soltan (Ksar Ouled-Soltane), 308 km, otrestarirovannoe and still inhabited store-warehouse. High-rise gorfy occupy both courtyards Ksara, which runs daily life.
Along the main road you can re-enter Tataouine. If you are not in a hurry, before the monotonous way back on the highway RN19 in Medenine and * Houmt Souk, 464 km, it is advisable to spend the night in Tataouine.